Posted by: westcoastice | January 15, 2018

January 15, 2018 Ice Climbing Report

Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon & Lillooet

(Shannon Healy) Last Sunday (Jan 7), we tried Hell’s Creek first, but it was not in. Decided to go for Honeyman after and we only climbed the lower half due to time. It was wet, but the ice was still good. The first bit you can feel the spray from the left side, but after a few moves your out of that and the rest of the water was coming off the ice. It is thick, so it’s not going away anytime soon, especially with -12ºC temps. You, your gloves and ropes will get wet, but it is worth it.
(Bobby Wallace) We came, we climbed (Jan 14). Honeyman Falls.


Early morning jaunt up Honeyman Falls (Bobby Wallace)

(Danny O’Farrell) Climbed a another fun new route “Stoner Falls” with Steve Janes to the left of Shriek of the Sheep we think?. Its slog of an approach, but the top two pitches are worth every penny!
(Steve Janes) Conditions-wise, the ice was WI5/5+ condition; very steep, very brittle, and chandeliered. Substantially more physical than the first pitch of The Gift for example. The final ice was a sneaky bastard, with brittle unconsolidated ice interspersed with eggshell 1-2” thick, somewhat difficult pro, and deceivingly steep sections, even overhanging for the first two body lengths, no real rests either…

Stoner Falls WI5/5+ 350m 3+ pitches FA Danny O’Farrell & Steve Janes January 13, 2018
Take the same drainage as Shriek of Sheep, but take the left drainage when you come to the “Y” in the drainages. Continue up the drainage to a 15-20m pitch of WI3+ or 4 depending on the line you choose, there was an old sling that someone used for a rap station a few years ago (potentially trying to find Shriek? ).
Continue up the drainage on easy WI2-3 rambles and snow for another 250m until you come to the main fall. The first upper pitch is in WI5 condition for 55m. Belay off screws or tree on climber’s right. Continue up on another 20-25m of WI4 ice to a tree belay on climber’s right.

(Steve Janes) Danny O’Farrell and I climbed a super rad ice/mixed route about 600-800 meters above Terzaghi Dam today (Jan14). Danny said he’s not sure its been climbed or even formed like this before, but being roadside I wouldn’t be surprised if it had been climbed numerous times. Either way, its in right now, felt about WI5, 22m and was awesome! Half ropes really helped limit rope drag on the traverse… Pretty fuckin cool road side mixed climbing for those into that sort of thing!

Stoner Sends WI5 22m FA Steve Janes & Danny O’Farrell January 14, 2018
Roadside mixed route 600-800 meters above Terzaghi Dam (see above).

On another note, we watched a team make the second ascent of Bitcoin Billionaire this afternoon! Could turn into a real classic!

(Wayne Wallace) Climbed Capricorn on Saturday (Jan 13) and made the second ascent of Bitcoin Billionaire on Sunday (Jan 14). Pictures below.

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon & Oregon Jack

(Bobby Wallace) We were the only group at Marble Canyon on Sunday (Jan 14). +1ºC most of the day.
Most of Deeping Wall was wet, with a dry patch up the middle.
Icy BC was good though.


Marble Canyon on Sunday. Deeping Wall on the left; Icy BC on the right (Bobby Wallace)

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

(Antony Wood) Super fun. Fucked up mixed route outside of Lillooet today. Primo. With Nathan Spowage.
Just as you come past the dam into Lillooet. Cross the river on the left and down the tracks a way. Starts with 2 blobs of ice. Wi3 thin. To M5 plus runout. Above Small Creep.
(Drew Brayshaw commented…) If it’s in the bowl above Small Creep, then it has been climbed before, but I’m not sure of the exact details. Used to be a couple fixed ropes up there, somebody’s spent time working on that.


Mixed climbing above Lillooet Dam (Antony Wood)

(Henrik Hinkkala) Good day (Jan 13) on Three Ring Circus with Graham Rowbotham and Perry. Road doesn’t need chains, follow yellow flagging. We finished at the last section on ice, 2 raps down on threads.

(Tim Nielsen) Climbed Carl’s Berg with Mike Hong on Saturday (Jan 13). Chandelier-y, mushroom-y, and fun. Lots of nice caves. Looked a bit early seasonish.
Tip: don’t use guidebook approach beta. Traverse climbers left along river ‘trail’ and then follow the leftmost gully up to the climb. Its not as steep, and less grown over. Happy climbing!


Mike Hong’s legendary selfie from Carl’s Berg Saturday.

(Mike Vanwerkhoven) Climbed The Tube with Clayton Matthews on Saturday (Jan 13). Was bone dry! Thin upper portion, so we led up the main event, set anchor up and did some laps.
(Henrik Hinkkala) We climbed The Tube today (Jan 14) to the top, muddy finish. The bolted anchor at the top was covered in snow-ice, when I topped out. The other guys uncovered it while coming up. I totally would have thought the anchor would have been at the ledge above; I looked everywhere. But it is placed lower down, where it shouldn’t completely freeze over.

(Mohammad Pahrbod) Rambles Centre upper tier in a fat condition; wet though.
(Jennifer E. Carter) Carolyn Graham and I wanted to report on Rambles Center today (Jan 15). Just a warning about the top tier anything left to center: watch for a big slabby surprise hole on the top out. You can’t see it from the base. Right now you can turf tool around it in the frozen dirt, but be careful if it warms up out there. Top tier, right hand side in excellent condition. 1st tier is in great condition; just a bit wet.
(Eric Bites) Climbed Rambles Centre with Marcus and Adam on Saturday (Jan 13). First flow is nice, Top Tier seems to have healed up a bit since the last report. Decently wet on a few lines, but plenty of dry options.
Snapped a photo of Shreddie from the car, looks huge.

Highway 1, 3 & 5 – Hope, Fraser Canyon, Coquihalla & Manning Park

(Drew Brayshaw) It’s super warm here. The stuff that was in on Saturday in the Fraser Canyon, including Hells Lake Falls, was falling apart on Sunday afternoon! Your best bet to find local ice would be high elevation stuff like the Falls Lake climbs (if not buried under snow) or Nepopekum Falls in Manning (if ditto).
(Marc-André Leclerc) Ice may have survived up box canyon. Felt like +20c in the sun at 1500m today (Jan 15) though.

(Drew Brayshaw) Water Music is fat.
Riddler and Mr Freeze have huge mushrooms.
Kryptonite is not touching down.
Where is Ultrawoman is looking the best it has in years.
Sailor Bar Gully has holes with running water on pitch 2.
Under the Big Top is skinny.
Unclimbed stuff on the East side of the Fraser River looks good (packraft access maybe??)

Highway 1 – Spence’s Bridge

(Adam – aka Boomer R. Tadd) Climbed with Drew Brayshaw on Private Idaho today (Jan 14)… dry!
(Drew Brayshaw) Climbed Private Idaho with Adam off Highway 8. I think this was relatively fat conditions for this climb, which doesn’t form every year. Stan Sasbourin gave it WI 2+ on the FA, but it felt like a WI 3 to me!
Note:  Easy to link these up with the Goldpan gullies via a 15 minute drive, make a worthwhile day out of it.
Approach Note: KMZ pin is in the right spot (Google Earth file), but the climb can be hard to see from where you park by the bridge. The parking/approach picture below should help. Walk along old rail line past the ranch until you reach a spot with boulders and old wrecked trucks. Angle up and left from here to the climb (climber’s left of drainage), because the direct approach up the drainage is full of prickle bushes

(Drew Brayshaw) Pictures below of Murray Creek Falls at Spences Bridge. The left hand column forms from the creek itself and rarely freezes solid. The right hand column forms out of a hole or tunnel in the rock that was drilled for an irrigation flume, and is usually more likely to be solid enough to climb. The flume is long gone. On the FA the descent was made by walking off along the flume* . Nowadays, I’m not sure what you would do as the ice is thinnest at the top. Build an anchor at the last thick ice? Rock gear? Crawl through the tunnel?
*See below for the actual story from Garry Brace.
(Garry Brace) On the 1st ascent (I think) we crawled through the tunnel.


Murray Creek Falls at Spence’s Bridge (Drew Brayshaw)


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