Posted by: westcoastice | January 9, 2018

January 9, 2018 Ice Climbing Report

Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon

(Danny O’Farrell) Today (Jan 6), Steve Janes, Hunter Lee and I climbed the first pitch of The Gift in WI5+ conditions, with a significant amount of water pouring down everywhere. Bailed due to large amounts of running water and time. If your heading up in the next few days bring an umbrella!!
I’d suggest full GTX, or better yet, a dry suit lol, I had water pooling in my sleeves, and pouring down my arm pits and torso and into my pants; full value pitch.
Upper pitches were pouring even more than the first…


Steve Janes leading The Gift (Danny O’Farrell)

(Sean Draper) Mike Hong, Shahbaz Tabyanian and myself did a 1 day mission to Salmon Stakes (Jan 7), departing Vancouver at 0330 and getting home around 2230. Good conditions in the Bridge River, although it was starting to get above 0ºC in the afternoon. We avoided the scree cone, and found a good approach up through the trees on the right. Good first pitch, with some smaller, but fun steps above. At the corner it turned into a snowslog as far as we could see, so we headed down. Lots of rockfall from the walls above as it warmed, funnelling directly down the scree approach. Good day out.


(Danny O’Farrell) After working on the Bridge River for the last 3 years and spending over 100+ days working on fisheries conservation and monitoring with the Xwisten First Nations, I’ve spent a lot of time day dreaming of establishing new lines in the Bridge River Valley, as it’s a very special place for me. Over the last few months, I’ve been watching a few lines form high on the walls above the river. After showing Steve and Hunter these lines, we decided to give one of the lines a go!

On Sunday, January 7, 2018; Steve Janes, Hunter Lee and I, established a new and exciting mixed alpine style route up the Bridge River Valley called “Bitcoin Billionaire, M6, WI4, 325m”. The route was completed in 7 Pitches. The route is a approximately 550-600m elevation of gain, from the base of the river to the top of the climb, the route itself is approximately 325m. Steve Janes says one of the best lines he’s ever climbed.

Bitcoin Billionaire M6 WI4 7 pitches 325m FA January 7, 2018 Danny O’Farrell, Hunter Lee & Steve Janes 
: The climb is approximately 43.5 km from the highway from Lillooet or 6.5 km below Terzaghi Dam. The route lies between the already established routes Salmon Stakes and A New Leash on Life along the highway on the East side of the river. From the road you can only see the final pitch of beautiful fat blue grade 4 ice. Cross the river and gain approximately 250 of elevation to the base of the climb.
Pitch 1 55m WI 4: Climb a small hanging pillar to thin ice for approxmently 25m at WI4, the pitch than eases up to grade 2-3 and snow to a large ledge with tree belay.
Pitch 2: 55m M6: Climb WI2/3 and snow 25m to gain the ledge. Traverse into an awkward and fun squeeze chimney with questionable pro, requiring making multiple crux moves involving lots of stemming, groveling, facing both directions, and knifeblades (M6, 25m). Traverse right 5m to and belay off large tree on climber’s right.
Pitch 3: 65m WI 2/ M3 / Snow Ramp: Climb the long snow ramp 45m, then climb awkward WI2/3 M3 for 10m, climb the remaining snowslope 10m to large tree on climber’s left. Belay from tree. 70m ropes are required or belayer may have to simul-climb up 10m or climb to a small tree on climber’s left to establish another belay station.
Pitch 4: 35m WI 2/Snow Ramp: Round corner from belay station on easy WI2 and snow. Make one awkward move over rock and ice bulge to base of squeeze chimney. Belay is located on climber’s right in small crack, gear to 0.5 or pins.
Pitch 5: 55m M6: Enter the chimney and get busy! Stem up on thin ice and rock to overhanging chockstone roof at M6 (Solid cam under roof, right side #2 Yellow BD Camalot). Then find stick in low quality snow and ice at the lip and grunt through the roof. Once through the roof and chockstone ,enjoy fun stemming and better ice at M5 to upper cirque and final tiers. Belay off good ice screws below upper cirque.
Pitch 6: 20m WI 2: Easy climbing on good ice to base of final 40m tier. Belay off good ice screws on climber’s right in small alcove.
Pitch 7: 40m WI 4: Fun climbing on WI4 on fat blue ice to top of climb. Belay off good ice.
Descent: Rappel route, using trees, v-treads and slinging ice pillars.


Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon & Oregon Jack

(Jeremy Thom) Crowd warning: I’ll be taking a BCMC course out this weekend. We’ll have two ropes up and lots of top-roping. The plan is to hit Oregon Jack on Saturday (the 13th). We’ll play nice of course if anyone else shows, but you won’t have the climb to yourself. We’ll be there all day. Sunday is TBD depending on how everyone does and what’s in, but I’ll post something Saturday evening with the plan.

(Steve Roberts) Some shots of Marble Canyon from Sunday (Jan 7)


Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

(Kevin Aitken) Seton ice, +7ºC at take out… Lots of ice falling and water flowing.


(Mikes Shives) Climbed Synchronicity on Saturday (Jan 6). Very wet, but still loads of good fat ice. There was a small point release that came down from the lower part of the Synchrotron gulley. Enough snow to cover some of our tracks. Felt a bit uneasy with the warm temps.
Rambles Center still fat on Sunday (Jan 7).

(Eric Hughes) Rambles right conditions (Jan 8). Raining across duffey. Its all sounding hollow and very wet.
Public Service (mixed start to curtain) was not in.


Rambles Right (Eric Hughes)


Highway 99 South – Pemberton, Whistler & Squamish

(Adrian Burke – WCI webmaster) Ryan Larkin and I climbed The Plum in Birken on Sunday (Jan 7), to the top. All pitches are in good shape with some open holes that were easily avoided. The first pitch was a bit of a shower so Goretex is suggested. The last pitch was spectacular with thought provoking ramps and mushrooms requiring some acrobatics. It made it worth all the effort. Fantastic pitch.

The snow slogs between the pitches were epic. Wet, deep West Coast snow, sometimes up to our thighs. But lucky you… we (mostly Ryan) have punched a trail all the way up that should make it significantly easier. Get on it!


Highway 5 – Coquihalla

(Russ Shepherd) Couple of photos from Box Canyon.
We climbed Yellow Flow today (Jan 7). It was thin in spots, hollow in spots, crumbly in spots… overall it was a great day out!




%d bloggers like this: