Posted by: westcoastice | January 6, 2018

January 6, 2018 Ice Climbing Report

Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon & Lillooet

(Francis St-Pierre) Climbed at Honeyman Falls with Werner on Wednesday (Jan 3). Ice was good with a mixture of wet and some dry lines going at WI 3-4. Centre is fat with mostly good ice and pro. Left didn’t look attractive and far right basically hasn’t formed. I was surprised by the amount of avalanche debris at the base of Honeyman… it’s clearly a place to watch out for after a dump, which is fairly rare there so easy to forget or disregard.
Cherry Ice looked ok from the path, but still has a hole on the lefthand side.

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon & Oregon Jack

(Wes Dyck) Jan.1 – led Oregon Jack in one 50m pitch. -17ºC the whole day. Slinging strange mushrooms and one old screw hole under roof was a bonus. Thanks to Allan T. for long belay.
Jan.2 – crawled out of the tent at -20ºC. Top-roped Deeping Wall on 2 lines to get in shape for the year. -15ºC during the climb. Thanks to Allan T. for cold weather camping.
(Tim Nielsen added…) No Deductible (The Showdown??) has bolts frozen over near the top, and is therfore in X condition to lead, unless you get your metal detector out.
That beta is second-hand, and also as of 6 days ago, at which point upper ice was still to thin to take even stubbies, as it usually is.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

(Peter Watson) Really stoked to have finally ticked Three Ring Circus. Route is in good shape with the first pitch being much fatter than past ascents but it still feature the same sort of shit cauliflowers. At the top of pitch 2 we rambled up one more grade 2 step before rapping. Slung a tree up and left of top of pitch two and set a thread just below bottom of pitch 2. Go get it, easy approach with Enterprise Creek being plowed; 4wd necessary but no chains required today.
(Fern Webb commented after climbing it the next day with Kris Wild) Someone from the logging company left a note on our windshield today indicating they didn’t like us parking there. Climbers could bring shovels to dig in further off the road. I don’t know what company, the note was not signed.

(Wes Dyck) Jan.3 – Attempted Mr. Freeze WI6, but looked easier and less sustained than Riddler WI5. Dan C. graciously led, but backed off due to his first day off the couch! Good ambition, Dan! -7ºC whole day. Cirque of the Superheroes was the best ice I saw all 3 days. Kryptonite looks great if you are up for leading it.

(Peter Watson) After needing to chip ice out of my rims this morning to get rid of a bad wobble, G AND I meet at highnoon for an afternoon (Jan 3) play on Carl’s Berg. No longer brittle, the ice, at -7ºC temps, was running with lots of water. Full Goretex was worn and utilized.

(Peter Watson) After getting beaten to Synchronicity this AM (Jan 5), we punched trail up Loose Lady all the way to the top. Classic conditions on the route, approach gulley is really crap condition with so much snow that the ice is rotten with lots of water running under it. First WI3 pitch was fine, with lots of snow clearing and rotten ice. Upper tier has a huge amount of ice. I snuck up the left side to the bolt belay behind the pillar at WI4+. Then punched through a hole from behind the pillar to take on the front side at WI4+ as well. Light drizzle rain on and off all day. Make sure to consider avalanche hazard & conditions given this warming trend. There is considerable terrain above.

(Eric Hughes) Tried Shreddies today (Jan 6). First pitch is in good condition. Second is a chandeliered water fall. I got up three mushrooms around the back before trying to exit onto the front face. It was too warm today +3ºC. The main column on the right will be good to go once the flow drops and the ice consolidates. Gulley slid while descending so expect a slippery approach.
Closet Secrets is leadable, but not protectable . First pitch is 1 inch thick in places.

Highway 99 South – Pemberton, Whistler & Squamish

(Alex Ratson) A little late to report although Tuesday morning Ryan Larkin and myself got on Nintendo 64 in Squamish. Great climbing although probably isn’t lasting with the incoming heat.


Leading Nintendo 64 (Alex Ratson)

(Jason Ammerlaan) Sky Pilot North face is still sporting some really good ice. It stayed cold yesterday (Jan 3) and the ice was hard. The thin ice on the rock bands in the centre of the face will make for a much more sustained outing once they form up.

Highways 1 & 5 – Hope

Navigator Wall M7+ R 9 pitches 700 meters FA January 3, 2018 Marc-André Leclerc & Tom Livingstone
(Marc-André Leclerc) Tom and I climbed a winter version of Navigator Wall (first winter ascent) on the South summit of Slesse two days ago (Jan 3). A superb mixed route and a great day out. The rock is perfect for mixed climbing. 700 meters, M7+R. Can’t wait for more. 
(Tom Livingstone) We made slight variations to the summer rock line, and Marc described the climbing as ‘rowdy!’ I agreed: after about three Scottish tech 8 or 9 pitches things were certainly getting a little crazy… Hopefully we’ll get some more good weather and conditions soon!

(Boomer R. Tadd) Conditions Report for Othello Tunnels:
Tunnel Time; Tunnel 1 – Not quite touching down, but some short screws and some bold moves should get you up and on the roof. Goes at a Railway Grade of 2-3, maybe 3,4,5 moving down tunnel, train driving side.
Pillar Time; Tunnel 3 – It’s fat and touching. Strange vegetable-looking formations and thin close to roof, tools blunted from concrete disguised as ice, but still a sick and burly climb. Solo up to roof, no big deal.
Thomas the Tank Engine; Tunnel 4 – It’s not in, not even close, looks like some tourists collected the main ice and used it as swords. But still a fun approach with crampons on in the dark.

South Okanagan

(Dave Mai) Some photos of Naramata Creek ice. More interior than West coast, but I figure this group would get a kick out of this photoshoot we did at Naramata Creek park a couple night ago. Ascending crystal pillars in the middle of the night. Achieved this look using a couple LED lamps and headlights. Wasn’t sure how well this shoot would go at first, but I figured if the photos didn’t turn out, at least we got to go ice climbing!
Thanks to Stan Sabourin and Colleen Aven for playing along.


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