Posted by: westcoastice | January 3, 2018

January 3, 2018 Ice Climbing Report

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

(Mohammad Pahrbod) I climbed in Marble Canyon with Goodarz Nategh & Parisa Faghih on January 1. Deeping Wall Direct, Icy BC and Body Shop were all in, with good quality ice. It was freaking cold -16ºC.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

(Drew Brayshaw) A couple rare formers on the Duffy are coming in (pics from the 29th Dec): Cutthroat and Gung Hai Fat Choi

(Mohammad Pahrbod) I climbed Carl’s Berg WI5 with Goodarz Nategh & Parisa Faghih on December 31. It was freezing cold -17ºC with brittle ice. We rapped down in the dark.

(Francis St-Pierre) Went to Rambles Centre with Werner for a first day (Jan 2) on ice doing laps on the first 2 steps. Ice is fat and in great condition. Mostly dry lines. Note: there is a fair bit of powder snow on approach, but the ice is clear of snow.
Looking at Shreddie from the road, it looks almost formed.
Rambles Right looked fat, as seen from road (sorry no pic)
(Mohammad Pahrbod) Synchronicity looked great on the way back from Lillooet. Noticed two climbers on the lower tier (pic below)

Highway 99 South – Pemberton, Whistler & Squamish

(Eric Carter) We went looking to climb Place Creek Falls today (Jan 2). Hiked in, but it was pouring with water on the left side, so we bailed. Instead we swam up Class in Session and then bumped over to Roadside Attraction.
Class in Session was pretty runny and easy to find. We parked at the sign for Cool Creek Canyon.
Roadside Attraction was great.
(Drew Brayshaw added these comments about Eric’s Place Creek Falls photo) That looks about the same as when we climbed it, except less open water and way more snowy! We climbed up (totally snow in Eric’s pic) and set the first belay in the cave on the right, then climbed just left of the cave where the snow blobs are visible to reach the upper low-angle stuff.

(Mike Vanwerkhoven) Clayton Matthews and I ended up randomly at Drive-by Shooting looking for Roadside Attraction. Climbed it and on our way down found Roadside Attraction and climbed it as well. Drive-by was thin. Roadside has a lot of ice! Pillar looks amazing. Any of the non-vertical ice had a layer of rotten ice to clear, but underneath it was solid. Cold day with the wind chill, screaming barfies full on on the first climb in the morning! (Cord and rap ring on tree above right side of Drive-by added)

(Jeff Van Driel) Climbed at Mystery Roach Hotel and Fat Giblets today (Jan 2) with Teresa and Tim Ross.
Mystery Roach Hotel is lean. We dry tooled through the bolts at the bottom to avoid breaking any of the fragile features. It was a bit thin for screws in general. As far as access, CME is the company developing the area and their site office is now right at the base of the climb. We chatted with them and they let us park right there. How long this will last, I don’t know. They definitely didn’t want us to head up the road any further as they are blasting up there.
Fat Giblets is in good shape, although the lower angle ice near the top was a bit rotten on the surface. Lacy Giblets looked like the lower smear was detached from the rock somewhat (sorry, no pic). We took a long circuitous route (deep, slow trailbreaking even with snowshoes) to get there and a more direct route down. Half way between Wedgemount turnoff and Wedge Woods (park either/or) head more or less straight up, then trend a bit left to the climb.
Here are the coordinate corrections for the kmz file:
Mystery Roach Hotel 50.17471, -122.87532
Giblets 50.17593, -122.88618

(Joseph Wong) Tried to climb A Scottish Tale today (Dec 31). Approached from Chief parking lot. It’s knee to chest deep snow on the approach. Took me 3 hours to the base. I couldn’t start climbing, as I kept sinking in the snow. Jean-Marc Savoie told me he rapped in and climbed it yesterday. I think that’s the way to go for now.
(Alex Watson added…) We rapped in and climbed A Scottish Tale from where the rock is ahead of you. The snow was really hard deal with, even when rapping in!
A couple of us put in a shiny new rap station where the old shitty pin station was halfway down the main flow of A Scottish Tale. Should make it much easier and safer for those approaching via the Gondola.
An observation; the tree at the top of the climb is getting shit kicked from people rapping. It might be worth looking at making a more sustainable anchors here with the added traffic on this route.

Highway 1 – Hope

(Drew Brayshaw) We climbed Mousetrap on December 31. There was lots of crud to clear to get to the ice. Lots of ice under the crud, but you need to be prepared to dig for pro. Need to climb the first 5 meters on steeper ice, but the sticks were good and the landing was a big fluffy pillow. Screws would have been short on that though. Better pro higher up. The climb itself is a trail, beaten in to top of second pitch. We did not go past there.
Spitting Cobra looks in from the road.
Tradewinds and Tailwind too.


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