Posted by: westcoastice | December 26, 2017

December 26, 2017 Ice Climbing Report

The BC ice season is finally forming up nicely. The high temperatures in Lillooet are forecast to be in the -10ºC range to the end of the coming weekend and well below freezing through the first half of January. Good stuff for the ice!

Highway 40 – Bride River Canyon

The Gift looks in according to this nice drone video.
The Theft is still forming. Pitch 4 icicles have not touched down – see drone video.

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon & Oregon Jack

(Boomer R. Tadd – WCI Facebook group) Oregon Jack. December 22. Most of the Lower Pillars are free of snow, since I cleared it all off for everyone. Hooky lower pillar and can do a couple variations, thanks to some smears on rock lower down, so can mix it up for laps on rock if you want to play. A foot of snow on the way in didn’t stop the Jeep, but road is pure ice under snow so take caution driving up to big tree for parking… Crux is hopping over barbwire, goes at grade 3 or higher, just saying!😜 Upper middle bulge is horrible and running. I wouldn’t screw it, but I know some people have screwed worse. Solo action up to top pillar over hollow bulge is better if your not wearing Goretex. It’s actually not bad for early season, many different formations, so I like it.


Oregon Jack on Dec 22 (Boomer R. Tadd)

(Clark Bostrom) Braved the cold in Marble Canyon today (Dec 24). There’s a foot of light fluffy snow, so dig out the gators. Deeping Wall was well formed and dry. The line to the right was in good nick but wet. First pitch of Icy BC is good to go, but wet and snowy. No other humans around.


Deeping Wall (Clark Bostrom)

Photo of Deeping Wall (left) and Icy BC (right) from Emily Doyle:


Photo of Deeping Wall (left) and Icy BC (right) from Emily Doyle

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

(Jean-Marc Savoie – WCI Facebook group) Rambles Left is still in (thin) condition, on Dec 23. Bring at least 3 red screws. We ventured all the way to the high tier, which I had never explored. We found a sweet steep flow. Go check it out.
Shreddie already has more ice than last year.
Closet Secrets is starting its forming with a curtain at the top.
Entropy looks in and ready to hike to.

Zoomed in photo of Shreddie.


Shreddie (Jean-Marc Savoie)

Highway 99 South – Squamish, Whistler & Pemberton

(Jean-Marc Savoie – WCI Facebook group) In case anyone was wondering, as of December 24, Line Drive, Nintendo 64, and Alice on Ice are all at roughly 25% formed. Need a few more nights or colder temps. Try later in the week or next week.

(Mohammad Pahrbod – WCI Facebook group) Checked Cal Chek today (Dec 23) – virgin ice with running water in spots. Much better than last Thursday when checked by Jean-Marc. Believe might be climbable by Wed (Dec 27) if temps stay around -5ºC for few more days.

(Drew Brayshaw – WCI Facebook group) Graham Rowbotham and I (Drew Brayshaw) stopped in Birken Valley on the way to Lillooet and climbed Place Creek Falls. Pretty good shape right now. Maybe a bit easier than Update describes it with about 10 m of WI4 and lots of easier rambling. One big hole at the bottom, but climbs dry. We climbed 4 pitches: 30 m WI 2+, 30 m WI4, 60 m mostly easy with a 15 m WI3 step, and 60 m partly easy with 25 m of WI3.

Approach Notes: Turn right off Pemberton Portage Road on to Anson Road. Drive to the end and park. Walk down to the train tracks and North 100 m to a crossing. Follow quad trail past private property signs and under the power line [You will see a bunch of no trespassing signs, but this is the Place Glacier Trail. I (Drew) think they may be there for liability reasons. You definitely do not pass any houses or through any cultivated fields or range-land with stock animals.). Take a right fork. When you reach the second power line, walk left (North) 100 m and look for pink flagging on old road. Follow this old road until it becomes the Place Glacier Trail. Hike up this trail 20 minutes to the ice. Descend frozen moss gully or rap in down canyon wall to the base of the climb.

Descent Notes: Near the top. Walk off to climbers left from top to regain trail. 15 minutes walk with crampons back to the packs!

Other Birken stuff:
Roadside Attraction is in.
Candlewax is not quite in.
The Plum and nearby climbs are in.
Whisper Falls is in.
White Blotter pitch 1 is about 10 m away from touching down.

Highway 1 – Hope & Fraser Valley

(Josh Zahl – Facebook WCI group) Mousetrap is thin and cauliflowered, but climbable. (Drew) added that it has filled in a lot since Saturday.


Mousetrap (Josh Zahl)

South Okanagan

(Stan Sabourin – WCI Facebook group) South Okanagan Ice Update:
Blue Train – not in and scritchy
Naramata Creek – likely needs another good week…brittle, chandeliery ice, thinly veneered over running water
Okanagsn Spring – appears to be in, but may be thin (and it might even have a second pitch?)
Gong Show – appears to be in.


  1. Fuck yeah! Glad you’re still running the page man!

    Sent from my mobile


    • Thanks Jeremy, I do what I can. Let me know if you want to climb some time. I’m looking for partners.


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