Posted by: westcoastice | February 7, 2017

February 7, 2017 Ice Climbing Report

Highway 1 – Revelstoke/ Three Valley Gap

(Wes Dyck) Last week Dan Canton and I had a very efficient trip to Banff. On Monday Jan. 30 climbed Gap Falls on way to Banff. The first pitch was easy WI5 and second a WI4. For my lead, I chose the first pitch thinking it was easier and made it to the top on fumes. My hardest lead on leachless tools so far. It has been a hard transition to harder leads coming from the leashes. The route was in perfect conditions and a great climb to tick right beside the road.
On Tues, Jan.31 we bailed off Carlsberg due to running water and chandeliered ice. The approach pitch which we ususally don’t climb was in perfect conditions.
On the way back to the coast, we climbed Circus Circus WI4+ 3 pitches just east of Golden on Beaverfoot Rd. This is a seldom formed classic. Temps. were -20ºC for the first pitch and then when the sun hit the south facing climb it went up to -5ºC, however the joy of screaming barfies was again realized. This climb became plastic with the sun on it. It is highly recommended. Location is 1 or 2 drainages east of Green Gulley on Mt. Hunter.
We arrived back in Abbotsford at 9:30pm
Go to the land of the blue ice! You will not be disappointed!

Highway 1 – Chilliwack

(Marc-André Leclerc) Climbed today (Feb 2), what I believe to be the first integral ascent of the Southeast Couloir of Slesse, summited the south summit. Shaun Neufeld and Aaron Isbell had previously climbed to the col at the top of the couloir.

Great moderate alpine route in quite good shape. The first pitch is the crux with some scraping through thin crud, but easy (M4) After that, perfect snow and even some stoinker neve. The couloir is generally quite easy angled (50 degrees) but in a quite ambient setting. The upper crux, on the south face of the summit tower had some 5.8 rock where a few moves were made barehanded.

It’s worth mentioning that it’s not really a ‘new’ line. Just a newly complete winter line. This has been my standard downclimb off the peak now for the last couple years in summer, so I already knew the topography quite well.

I descended the route with a half dozen 30m raps and mucho down climbing. Anyways. Another one I can highly recommend.

Highway 40 -Bridge River Canyon

Henrik Hinkkala and Hunter Lee climbed in the Bridge over the weekend. Quite a few photos of the classics of the Bridge below. As well as shots of them climbing Young Pups, New Tricks in the Old Dogs, New Picks area.

(Nelson Pelson) Me and my buddy Denis Hoste climbed Capricorn on Sunday (Feb 5). Approached from Millar’s Pillar and then up the gully to Capricorn. The day before we thought the Pillar and Like a Rocket were Capricorn so we climbed both those too. More description in the pictures below.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

(Monte Johnston with Ian Strachan) The top step of Loose Lady has some aerated ice and the cauliflower features are quite big, but overall it’s still in decent shape. The slot between the upper pillars was quite tight as well, but we managed to squeak through after a little chipping.

Henrik Hinkkala and Hunter Lee climbed Red Wall Wanderers on the weekend. Ice still looks good! Pictures and details below.

Highway 99 South – Squamish, Whistler & Pemberton

(Jean-Marc Savoie) Roadside Attraction in Birken is still in for a little longer. Get it while you can. Only 7 or 8 km past Mt Currie, pull over on right (400 m past the Yex’wloa sign), walk up power line road. The climb is visible from highway. Break it up into 2 pitches or one long rope stretcher. Descent is 1 rap with 60m ropes. Variable ice Monday (Feb 6). -6ºC at the truck. Photos below.
Cal Chek is still barely in (see photo).

(Tom Scsk) Climbed The Plum Sunday (Feb 5). Ice amazing, some thin ice and snow covered cauliflower on the top of the first pitch. On the second hop the ice is just perfect.
Also lost a big BD express ice screw somewhere on the route!!!

(Jean-Marc Savoie) Additional info for Pemberton/Whistler area. Sunday Driver (last route north in the canyon-furthest from cable) at Suicide still looks in and fat from the highway. Entropy looks good for another go as well.
Mystery Roach also still looks in!


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