Posted by: westcoastice | January 31, 2017

January 31, 2017 Ice Climbing Report

Highway 1 – Chilliwack & Hope

(Marc-André Leclerc) January 27 – Found Scottish-ish conditions climbing in the Slesse group. Quite the place to be. We did a ‘link-up’ of the 3rd and 4th peaks. Accessed via the couloir between them, then I skied the couloir but not exactly in movie star style.

Observation of the North Couloir (Slesse) – probably quite snowy, but climbable. Steep couloirs had reasonable conditions for climbing, but also for skiing down. Not hard snow at all but supportive enough.


(Adam Tutte) The Phenom is in fatter then I’ve ever seen. The right side is climbing at around WI4+. Gave the pillar a run on Wednesday; John with the lead. Quinton followed it up with nerves of steel by soloing the left side. Impressive.
The WI4 seep is in nice and fat as well.

(Tim Emmett) We did a couple of FA’s at Christie Falls this weekend thanks to Adam Tutte and Jonathan Dean Urness. Both of these guys were instrumental in making this possible and Adam bolted both of the routes.

Rumble in the Bronx M10 35m 7 Bolts FA Tim Emmett & Adam Tutte January 28, 2017
(Adam Tutte) Tim Emmit grabbed the first ascent of my M10 Rumble in the Bronx. Waited 6 years to see this day and worth the wait. Fixed draws on the bolts.
(Tim Emmett) Rumble in the Bronx is an old project from 6 years ago and goes up the left side of the initial smear. The climb blasts out through the roof with some long moves and one incredibly delicately pull on a 2-3mm pocket up to the left side of the icicle. Then up it to lower off
Fireball 101 M10 35m 4 Bolts FA Tim Emmett & Adam Tutte January 29, 2017
(Adam Tutte) While Tim captured the RINB, I kept busy and set another M10 left of that. Then let Tim loose on it and he left it all on the wall and just squeaked out the first ascent on his third attempt as the sun was setting.  Climbing is compact and bouldery. Fixed draws on the bolts.
(Tim Emmett) Fireball 101 is steeper and more powerful than RINB,. The climb goes up the right side of the the same initial smear then horizontal, technical and powerful moves out to the right side of the ice. After a breather, fragile chandelier ice and a game-on runout to the top!
(Tim Emmett) RITB has one drilled pocket from 6 years ago and FB101 is totally natural. Both are superb. Thanks Adam and Dean for inviting me to their local crag and being legends setting up transport, kit, lodging, routes and generally being first class amigos. Dave Mai has some superb shots and is making a video too.

Highway 1 – Revelstoke

(John Forestell) Climbed Pillar of Doom, and Don’t Fear the Pillar this past week. Both great routes just 5 minutes south of RevelstokeDoom was funky climbing over ice mushrooms that are mostly cleared on the line I took (right side). Fear was pretty chandeliery ice that I had to dig through to get some good pieces, but climbed well! Both quite wet. Not sure how much life will be in them if the weather continues to hover around 0°C.

Highway 1 – Sicamous/Malakwa Ice Routes

(Josh Smith) Went back into Malakwa today (Jan 29). Started up C People, but hollow sun-baked ice (no burrowing produced blue, kicked a hole through it fairly easily). There was plenty of running water behind the climb. Temperatures of ~4ºC made for an easy decision to try again another day. Plenty of ice, just not for us today. Will be bomber when cold again.

ACCESS NOTE: We spoke with dairy farmers named John and Joni that own the land, (own the entire cliff face apparently) – they are easy going, friendly and not averse to letting climbers enjoy their backyard crag. Just pop in and ask permission so they know you’re up there. However, the farmer/landowner closest to community hall (Ice Palace area approach I believe) has recently become quite upset with climbers crossing his land. He has new private property signage and, while we weren’t able to speak with him. His neighbors said he’s all but closed to any access for the climbs behind his land.

Not much climbing today, but did meet some really nice folks in the area. (I realize I’m not ordinarily a ‘regular’ in the area and welcome any clarifications. I am very familiar however with sensitive climbing access issues and gotta say the dairy farmer’s take/attitude was a welcome treat from most of the private landowners I’ve dealt with in other provinces).

Highway 99 North – Marble Creek

(Caitlin Schneider) Just a heads up, there will be a group of 6 new climbers and 2 ‘instructors’ up at Marble Canyon this weekend (Feb 4-5th). We will try our best to stay out of peoples way or make room as needed.

(James Pierson) Spent the Saturday (Jan 28) at Marble Canyon, then hit Oregon Jack on the way home; as we drove around looking at conditions. Only two other groups at Marble on Sat. One pair started up Icy BC, but I guess they bailed part way up the third pitch.
We started up Deeping Wall, then had a little TR session on it and the Direct. There were a couple of wet spots on it, but pretty nice all-in-all.

First pitch of Icy BC had some thin, delicate spots near the top. Second pitch was solid. The third pitch was beautifully cauliflowered in the lower center then transitioned to very thin up top. I moved around to the right and found more solid ice there and made it to the top.

Oregon Jack was solid going up to the cave, then a fun traverse out to the right to a bit of an overhanging step. The climb finished with a very thin, delicate top out. We talked to the old couple who owns the ranch below the falls, and they said they watched a pair climb it by headlamp the night before.

Hopefully we get another cold snap and things start thickening up again!


Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

(Francis St-Pierre) Robert Nugent and I (Francis St-Pierre) climbed Loose Lady today (Jan 26). Surprisingly good conditions and mostly dry ice. Climbed last curtain in 2 pitches with some airy mushrooms to get to the cave and bolt station. Up the back of the pilar and out through the hole to finish the pitch. 70m ropes took us down in one rap. What a day!!!

(Nelson Pelson) Climbed Rambles Center (and the did the top left pitch too) today.
Quite warm out, but remarkably the ice was all dry. Good conditions on all pitches (3 of them + 4th extra). Approach was fast tho a bit icy in places.

(Jean-Marc Savoie) Eric Hughes and I managed to find Red Wall Wanderers in prime condition and Eric had what it took to send. Felt harder than Pilsner Pillar! (Jan 28). Video of Eric on Facebook.

(Eric Hughes) Red Wall Wanderers is an outstanding line with 6 or 7 pitches. Temps were -2ºC to +4ºC today (Jan 28). Pitch 1 is in either stout WI4 condition or a running water chandelier WI3. Leader’s choice. There is a new alternative start on the right. Pitch 2 is mellow. Pitch 3 is in WI5+ condition… but pro and hooks were good. The left side is a soggy mess. Pitches 4 & 5 are in good condition with steep sections. Pitch 6 is one of the best pitches I’ve climbed on the coast, a 45m pitch with a curtain with a folded section in the middle, WI4++. Trees & threads are all in.
Not So Burly, seen on approach, has rotted out.
Dunkin Donuts and the entire left wall has no ice.

Highway 99 South – Whistler, Squamish & Vancouver

(Matt Kennedy) WI4 and upper pitches of The Plum quite good. First WI3 looked not awesome, but probably climbable. Route left looked decent as well. Whisper Falls first pitch looked surprisingly alright, second pitch is open and running.

(Bryan Kent) Entropy and those climbs still looked in today as we drove past on the highway

(Matt Kennedy) Dakotah Fozzard and I summited Crown Mountain via the Crater Couloir (ed. sometimes called Crown Couloir) yesterday (Jan 28). What a fun day out! A large slide from a few days ago had left styrofoam snow and short bits of alpine ice most of the way up. As a novice, wannabe winter alpinist, I was glad to have a rope and axe/tool combo at points. The guy who solo’d past us seemed glad to have a single axe and no rope. Pretty awesome that a route like this is easily transit and hiking accessible.

Cautionary notes: the large avalanche left an icefall-like crown line with looming 3 meter high serac-like chunks waiting to tumble down the route. Also, beware the dive-bombing raven who doesn’t like anyone touching his summit block.


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