Posted by: westcoastice | January 18, 2017

January 18, 2017 Ice Climbing Report

Highway 40 – Lillooet & Bridge River Canyon

(Shannon Healy) Honeyman Falls is in reasonable shape, climbed on Sunday (Jan 15). We did it in three pitches. The right section of the first pitch has great ice (set up three top ropes) WI3-/4. Far left, was top roped (WI4+), but it is scary close to thin ice over running water. Middle section is gross, rotten ice. Middle rambley pitch is snice. Last pitch can be done by the fearless: sounds like a bass drum, but there are enough sections of mushroom, hard to protect ice to ooze your way up. Nobody broke through. Awesome scenery too.
(Maw Mawperson) I led the 3rd pitch (Honeyman Falls) on Saturday (Jan 14). I climbed near the water spout, stemming the interesting features in the groove. Protection was minimal with the rime, but i found the climbing to be secure.

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Ilia Slobodov and Priti Wright climbed Icy BC on Saturday (Jan 14). I was walking into it with a bit of trepidation, with the guidebook saying the last pitch is a WI5 and having only led one WI5 pitch before, and that with a lot of struggle. But the ice on pitch 3 was huge and in WI3 shape. Pictures below, including the Deeping Wall.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Ilia Slobodov and Priti Wright climbed Synchronicity on Sunday, Jan 15. It was in great shape in the sun. What a fun route, one of my all time favorites! We were able to rock and ice hop across the creek, no need for the cable crossing. That said, the cable and ropes were still there and looked in good shape and anchors seemed fine.
A party ahead of Ilia and Priti, Lee Purvis and Francis St-Pierre climbed Synchronicity as well. It was in good shape. Loads of ice, but variable… some plastic, some brittle. Anyway super fun. There was an ice dam so easy river crossing (no cable needed). We had a soloist ahead of us today, and two parties behind. Glorious in the sunshine this afternoon on the top pitch.

Highway 99 South – Squamish

NEW ROUTE
Ultimate Ultime Everything WI4R 9 pitches FA January 11, 2017 Jia Condon, Paul McSorley, Jason Kruk &  Tony Richardson 
UUE climbs roughly the line of the rock climb Ultimate Everything, with some variations. Additional report on Gripped. We approached on the trail right of the Apron, up to Broadway. We climbed a pitch of thin ice off Broadway, climbers left of Diedre. This is a 5.9 scramble pitch sometimes used as a Boomstick alternate in the summer. Two pitches got us onto the trail that leads to Ultimate Everything. See pics below for path taken. Started just right of the UE start and merging mid pitch with the UE corners. Two pitches went up the UE corners, some meandering, then pitch 5 was a long ice pitch. Pitch 6 was climbed with no rope. Pitch 7 was WI4R. Pitch 8 took us to one short final step which we 4th classed. Overall, not really much mixed climbing to speak of. Some turf but mostly ice.

Jason Kruk’s Facebook post about The Dream, from last Saturday (Jan 14):

Shannon Falls – (Jonah Edelman) I was there yesterday (Sunday, Jan 15). We got maybe 20 meters above the base and came down after a lack of good screw placements. Deciding upon what to do, a slab of ice fell above us raining down football size chunks of ice for a minute with some momentum. We were able to hide under the rock to the left of the falls. It was too warm to climb.
Consensus – still flowing and still dropping climber-killer-sized chunks down the open section mid-height.

Highway 1 – Hope & Fraser Canyon

Allan Trick and I ( Wes Dyck) climbed the Spitting Cobra on Friday Jan.13, 2017. Dropped the kids off at school and got a late start, but were very happy to find very fat conditions and did not use any of the rock gear that was brought. It must have fattened up since the FA the previous Saturday. The first pitch was soloed and then good screws were had all the way up.We climbed it in 4 pitches and opted out for the final 20m of WI2, since it was getting dark. We rapped from V-threads and a large tree from the last thick ice above the cobra formation. So three raps; one full 70m, a 40m and a 65m to the packs. One of the most interesting and adventurous routes i have done and probably the best route I have done in the Fraser Valley by far. Climbing under the alcove of the arched Cobra Hood and then on to the back, from steep aerated ice to plastic was exilerating and easier than it looked. Great exposure on the narrow hood of the Cobra formation. Fantastic. Unfortuantely our ropes froze to the first bulge of our first rappell when the screws were pulled and much water poured out of the holes and froze them solid at -10 and wind gusts. Reluctantly, i climbed back up in the dark, with some fear until i divenely understood what a priviledge it was to climb this seldomly formed perfect ice with a bright moon, good headlamp and warm clothes. Slay the viper! Thanks for the beta, Drew!

spitting_cobra_18jan17

Spitting Cobra (Wes Dyck)

Highway 97 – Enderby Cliffs

We (Adam Tutte & Jonathan Dean Urness) climbed Mythologic Saturday (Jan 14). It was a great day out, but the climb’s character was much different than the year of the first ascent. It felt hard; lots of cleaning and very solid ice. The temperature was -20ºC in the morning at 7am when we left the truck and -13ºC at 5pm when we got back.

mythologic_18jan17

Jonathan Dean Urness & Adam Tutte climbing the 3rd pitch of Mythologic. They are but a spec on the ice. Way to send it boys! (Dave Mal)

Washington State

NEW ROUTE (to be confirmed)
This route to the right of Ryans Wall. Newhalem, WA. Super Dave Moroles with the send!

NEW ROUTE
Eclipse WI5 2 pitches FA January 15, 2017 Dave Moroles & Scott Welch
Newhalem once again delivered. The conditions were perfect for first ascent of this 2 pitch gem. FA Dave Moroles Scott Welch. “Eclipse” WI5

NEW ROUTE
The Runway WI3 70m FA January 16, 2017 Drew Charness & Dave Moroles
Rope stretching 70 m. Maybe 72meters. Hwy 20 just past newhalem. Next to it is the Eclipse (WI5). Same approach.


Responses

  1. I was not part of the FA of the “runway” Drew Charness and Dave Moroles only

    • No problem. Thanks for the clarification. I’ve edited the post.


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