Posted by: westcoastice | January 7, 2017

January 7, 2017 Ice Climbing Report

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Peter Watson reports that Marble Canyon looked awesome. Forming up nicely.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Access Report: Simon Warhurst (Interwest Timber) posted the following, for consideration on approaches to Snowspider Mountain and the Van Horlick FSR.
I work for a forest company, Interwest Timber Ltd, in Lillooet. Over the last summer and fall we’ve opened up the road into the Van Horlick drainage and are actively logging and hauling on the roads now.
Industrial activity is generally occurring between 2:00 a.m. (logging trucks in and out) and continues until 6:00 p.m., usually with the last logging truck out by 3:00 p.m. There are approximately 20 loads/day being hauled, during the week. There is intermittent activity on weekends, which could include harvesting, road maintenance (plowing) and possibly hauling.
Logging trucks are turning in both directions onto Hwy 99, so do not block the Hwy junction.
The Van Horlick road is radio-assisted, so wherever possible, follow industrial traffic and pull over when they do to clear other traffic (generally loaded vehicles have the right-of-way). The road is not being maintained for 2 wheel-drive access. If you think you will need to put chains on, do so in a pull-out, not in the centre of the road at the bottom of the steep section of road near the 2km (as somebody did early this week and was almost run into).
Park only in signed, designated areas, specifically at the 6km (access turn-off to Sanctuary area) and the 9km (access turn-off to Temple area). The Snowspider area is very congested at this time, with most of the harvesting activity concentrated here, so we are asking people to stay out of this area. This work should go on until early February.
The Off-Road Vehicle Act and Regulations apply to snowmobiles, the gist being, don’t ride a snowmobile on a road that has been plowed and/or is fit for travel with other vehicles.

Simon Warhurst, RFT
Interwest Timber Ltd
250 256-7782

Peter Watson reported that Mother is looking to be in left of Synchronicity.
Carl’s Berg looked amazing as well.
Peter Watson climbed Loose Lady with Grant L yesterday (Jan 6). Quality day out. Most ice in that drainage in forever. Upper tier is in its quality state of melting artichoke petals. Followed right line to 35m and a thread. Belayed above the thread and let second make anchor off thread and screw for more protection. Climbed left over bulge/step ups then trended right on ramp that took me to the back of the cave (15m). Broke through between the two pillars and up the front side on quality dry ice to a two bolt anchor at the top. A single 70m rappel (2x70m ropes) gets you back to the ground. Two bolt anchor behind pillar is too high to use, but I clipped one of the bolts at I started up the backside to my tunnel.

Highway 99 South – Squamish, Whistler & Pemberton

Another reminder that Jeremy Thom is hosting a BCMC lead course today (Sat, Jan 7) at Cal Chek and tomorrow (Sun, Jan 8) on the first pitch of The Plum.

Brent Moore climbed the first few pitches of The Plum yesterday (Friday, Jan 6) with Tim Bonnell. Pictures below. The approach trail is in good shape, but it should be noted that it takes the hiker’s left (north) side of the drainage.  We didn’t pick it up and spent half the approach bushwhacking unnecessarily.
(Marco Buccheri) On January 1, the ice, especially in the lower WI3 pitches, had a lot of snow on it and plating quite a bit. You can rappel easily with a 70m rope from the top of the last pitches (maybe with a 60 m rope considering the rope stretch).
(Alexander Weber) I found that first WI3 pitches to be really crusty too. What looks like good ice on the surface sometimes turned out to be shit ice underneath. A couple placements ended up being hollow inside (so I placed them in better ice).

Kyle Skidmore and Alex Riom climbed A Scottish Tale on Thursday (Jan 5), reporting it it still in great shape. Also added that it would be prudant to at least mention the top was falling apart a fair bit as it warmed! Belayer is recommended to be better at dodging big blocks than I (Alex) was.

Shannon Falls is not really in.
(Kris Wild) I walked to the base today (Jan 5) too. Still too sketchy and wet at the bottom for me. From atop the big offwidth on the right it looks “reasonable” the upper tiers look great.
(Drew Brayshaw) RE: Shannon FallsWorth noting a) it was climbed in similar conditions in 2014, AND b) that it released several large chunks right around the time it was climbed in 2014 that would have killed any climbers that they hit. I’m not going to criticize the 2014 climbers – they had the same ability as anyone else to assess conditions, they made their decision, they went for it, and they survived. I know that my own risk tolerance decision was not to climb it in 2014, under similar conditions to what you see above. Personal tolerances for risk will vary. Sometimes survival from risky situations has as much or more to do with luck as it does with skill though.
(Jean-Marc Savoie) Nintendo 64 is still kinda in (see pics below).
(Kris Wild) Lorelai looked fat, and the approach pitch looked much thicker than when we did it a few weeks ago, although it still had about 3 metres of mixed at the top. There’s another pitch forming to the left that looks doable, but not very protectable.
(Drew Brayshaw) That pitch left of Lorelei came in and was climbed in similar shape in Feb 2014, although it was fatter on top and thinner on the bottom then. Not sure who did the FA. There was at least one bolt to clip on the lower part then, it looks to be covered with ice now.

Highway 1 – Hope & Fraser Canyon

(Drew Brayshaw) Pretty much the only things that aren’t in yet are Bridal Falls (has running water and might vaguely be doable for those not overly concerned with safety) and Seabird Falls. Everything else is climbable and indeed, mostly fat. Good hunting!

(Sean Draper) Don Montrichard and I climbed After The Gold Rush and Energizer at Gold Pan today (Wednesday, Jan 4). Gold Rush was in good shape, Energizer was a pleasant 200m romp on plastic ice. Fun day out. On the way up, stopped to look at The Crucible; pretty filled out, but still a large high-volume hole at the bottom.

Washington State – Icicle Creek

Cale Hoopes reports that Rainbow Falls in in… across from Snow Creek trailhead is in. Also a bunch of stuff at Careno Crag. Pic from today. Lots of ice.


Rainbow Falls, Icicle Creek (Cale Hoopes)


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