Posted by: westcoastice | December 30, 2016

December 30, 2016 Ice Climbing Report

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Alan Trick and Wes Dyck climbed first pitch of Icy BC on Tuesday the 28th after backing off due to very brittle conditions after transition to very cold from warm, melting period the prior Thursday. We cleared all the large blocks on TR and Gary Brace swam up the left side without any concern.
Second pitch of Icy BC was streaming water on both sides and the newly frozen tube was very thin. It has formed into an elongated ramp due to the force of water flow. Strange!
No Deductible and Showdown had cool little blobs that were cemented on solidly for awesome hooking!
Deeping Wall is also streaming but fattening up.
Temps were -5ºC to -7ºC all day.
Forecasts seem to indicate healing of ice from warm periods and an awesome January to come!

Alan hosted some pictures of the day here on Flickr.

Highway 99 South – Pemberton, Whistler & Squamish

Eric Hughes reports that White Blotter is in fantastic shape… just remember to bring more than 6 screws (Jean-Marc Savoie brain fart!). Made for a few “Marc-Andre” moments. Maybe the best looking piece of ice on the West Coast? Access issue: at gate with digger take immediate left, don’t go straight up the private road. Pics below:

Alexander Weber and company got on the first three pitches of The Plum on Boxing Day (Dec 26). Incredible conditions. Looks much fatter than the pics posted a couple weeks ago. Book gives the approach at 40mins. We found the same thing. It is flagged (thanks Jeremy Thom!). More flagging tape would be appreciated. This was an afterthought of ours, as we didn’t bring flagging tape (something we will do in the future). The snow isn’t much on the ground there, but there are booktracks. Just faint.
You can also see the huge WI4 pitch of The Plum from where you park. Pretty spectacular.

Jeremy Thom’s Approach Notes: I (Jeremy) put the flagging in last year. Pinkish. From the parking area go through the gate, turn hard right, pick up the flagging as it enters the bush. The best route varies depending on snow cover, brush, and new downed trees, but you should be able to see each flag from the last. They just give a general idea but will keep in the right drainage. As long as you stay in the right one, you’re fine.

Alexander’s pics of The Plum below:

Eric Carter and company climbed Roadside Attraction yesterday (Thurs, Dec 29). Lots of snow. Good shape otherwise though. Looked for Candlewax, but didn’t see it and was quite wet, so opted to ski in the afternoon.

Alex Ratson and company spent the day Wednesday (Dec 28) up near Cal Chek and the Whistler Bungee Zone. Lots of others up there with plastic-like ice. Still really worth getting into this zone while it’s still good! Alex’s pics:

Squamonix strikes again as the Ryan Larkin/Alex Ratson contingent headed up the Sea to Sky Gondola for amazing, yet easy access ice. We (Alex and Ryan) headed up to Ultra Violet at the Gondola top station today (Dec 29). Found one fun line that we took to the top and then rapped in on some awesome daggery pillars that are forming up well. Of course we topped the afternoon off with beer and fries at the top station. Fingers crossed for more cold as this area could be amazing for some harder lines. Alex’s pics below:

Highway 3 Keremeos & Hedley

Drew Brayshaw compiled a mini photo guide (on our Facebook page) to ice lines, climbed and unclimbed,near Hedley. In addition to these there is also a potential 2-3 pitch WI2 looking flow at the East end of the granite Hedley Bluffs, 4 km east of Hedley, but it’s on reserve land and also pretty much right in a house’s back yard, so good luck getting permission to climb it.

Photo Guide from Drew:

Highway 1 – Revelstoke

Amidst a conversation about climbing partners and condition enquiries in Revelstoke, Katie Bowen posted the following picture of Dam Falls from Dec 27.


Dam Falls today, Dec 27 (Katie Bowen)


  1. […] Mini Guide from Drew Brayshaw – scroll down on the Dec 30, 2016 Report Trout Creek Ice Climbs – A mini guide for ice climbs in Trout Creek (South Okanagan) from […]

  2. Hilary Matheson, Carl Reilly and I climbed the first two tiers of the Plum today. It’s huge and fat. Quite drippy and wet in many places, and snow covered. In combination, it made for a layer of surface crud that had to be cleaned. The second tier is in the easiest condition I’ve ever seen it. 3+ at most. (Though we only made it to the top of the steep stuff, set up a TR, and then descended after). Photo to come.


    • Hey Jer… adding your pic and comment to my update today.


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