Posted by: westcoastice | December 16, 2016

December 16, 2016 Ice Climbing Report

Highway 99 South – Pemberton & Whistler

The Plum (Eric Hughes & Sean Draper, inc pics) is in, good to go. The approach, as of Monday morning, had pretty thin snow cover over ice making travel tedious and treacherous. Took about an hour from the car, following a sparse line of neon orange flagging. Pictures of all pitches below. Last pitch felt like a west coast chandaliered 5… but better than last time, no mushroom at the top. Last anchor needs some love.
White Blotter has touched down… just (see pic).

Entropy in Soo Bluffs is in really good shape. Me (Mike Gallimore) and Bradley Ransom climbed it yesterday in 4 pitches as we only took 5 screws. Brad’s first ice climb, top effort! Was an amazing adventure for both of us. Looking forward to doing more BC ice this week.

(Matt Kennedy – Dec 15) Sometimes you’ve gotta bail… We bailed from Entropy about half way up when some ice bombs came down on us. Other than that, the ice was in great shape (if maybe a bit wet in the sun). I dropped my v-threader while messing with the tat, and we had to leave behind some gear. If you feel some kindness, we’ll give a 24 of your beer choice if you return our anchor. Otherwise, let the booty race begin…

Highway 99 South – Squamish & Cal Chek

Kris Wild & Fern Webb got in a little winter sports action near Shannon Falls on Thursday. Approach pitch on the left to Lorelai looked reasonable, except for the 5m we couldn’t see from the bottom… Lorelai itself was quite wet from the drips off the steep left wall, but climbed quickly. The gully above was startlingly devoid of ice and thick moss. Lots of scratchy stemming. Two 35m raps back to the base of Lorelai, then another 35m over the roofs to the base of the falls.

(Alex Ratson) Shannon Falls is still far from being in (pic). While at the base a moderate size ice dam broke releasing more flow… might be cold but the solar effect is having its toll.

Alex Ratson (with Ryan Larkin & Kenzie Ann) were up at Cal Chek Thursday (Dec 15) where the ice was in real good FAT form. Worth the stop for sure. Pics below.

Highway 1 – Hope & Fraser Canyon

Noah Been and I (Matt Kennedy) abandoned an attempt on Cruel Pools (Dec 15) when I broke through into the creek below the first flow. The gully to climber’s right also had some sketchy holes, and we didn’t make it far up. Deep powder with no base made for tricky and treacherous travel. We bailed and climbed the first two pitches of Mousetrap with our remaining daylight.

Marc-André Leclerc established some new routes over the week at Superheroes Cirque to the right of Mr. Freeze. See the topo image below. The lines are longer than they appear in the photo.

Antifreeze M6- 30m FA Marc-André Leclerc and Tim Nielsen Dec 14, 2016
Climb a thin ice smear right of Mr. Freeze, then climb left through an overlap using a small frozen tree to reach the ice of Mr. Freeze.

WI6+ 35m FA Marc-André Leclerc and Tim Nielsen Dec 14, 2016
The steep yellow pillar 20m right of Mr. Freeze. Somewhat fragile and bold, the upper 12m are about as technically interesting as pure waterfall ice gets! This is a super sick line.

Dr. Octopus WI7+ (M?) 35m FA Marc-André Leclerc and Tim Nielsen Dec 14, 2016
Unsure of how to grade Dr. Octopus. There are two moves on rock, but it is hardly a dry tool line. I think a water ice grade is more applicable although protection is mostly in the rock (fixed KB, one bolt and cams to #1). All the hard climbing is on ice. The two rock moves are not so hard. M4 traverse to the daggers. Most M routes seem to involve substantial dry tooling with easier ice. It’s no big deal; M7 is also fine. I hope someone tries it this weekend it’s sick.

We also climbed Mr. Freeze which is in excellent shape!

(Peter Watson) Today (Dec 14) we climbed Where is Ultrawoman with Chuck Norris variation to the pillar.. as I was not stoked on the main climb’s shape after attempting to lead it and down climbing after no good gear could be found. Chuck Norris is a fun variation only brought 2 beaks with me and used them both (yellow or blue tcu and a number 2 would give you some gear for the dry tooling around the chock stone). Made a belay under the chock stone by slinging it. M6 R is a good rating to the variation. Lots of snow on route made it feel like a small alpine outing. Lots of rotten ice with water running.


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