Posted by: westcoastice | December 14, 2016

December 14, 2016 Ice Climbing Report

General Question – is everyone pretty much using the Facebook Group now?
Should I keep doing the website version? No-one emailed me any reports this week, but lots of posts on Facebook. Let me know 🙂

Highway 40 – Lillooet & Bridge River Canyon

Cherry Ice is in (see pic from Maw Mawperson on FB).
Maw and company also explored Texas Creek Rd and Texas Creek FSR over the weekend. We found climbable ice in Lillooet and on Texas Creek Rd. If you figure out where we went, make sure you get permission from land owners to cross private property (pics).

Peter Watson explored the Canyon (Dec 9), reporting early season conditions for the most part, including no show, making approaches less friendly.
Salmon Stakes looked in but terrible approach with now snow (?)
Old Dogs, New Picks is in
Steri Strip still needs more days
Capricorn is in (see pic) but thin and unconsolidated in the final 10m
Plan B was in and climbed
4 Dressed Up as a 6, Like a Rocket and Millar’s Pillar look to be forming, but chandeliered
Nite n’ Gale‘s upper tier is not fully formed all the way across (pic)
The Gift is forming, still a lot of rock (pic)
The Theft is not touching down yet (pic)

All photos from Peter Watson via FB

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Peter Watson (FB) reported Icy BC pitches 2 and 3 filling in since Thursday.
Deeping Wall looked to have grown and no cars there at 1pm Saturday,-13ÂşC

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Kyle Skidmore (and others) found early season conditions on The Tube, thin, mushy with running water behind the ice.
As well, Loose Lady was challenging. The top pitch is in but mostly useless to protect, like swinging picks on strytofoam. The final column is touching down, but only 4 inches of chandeliered ice (Eric Hughes)
Rambles Left reported to be a little thin. Still forming (Kyle Skidmore)
Samuel Lambert had a good day at the Rambles, climbed Rambles Centre which was in great shape then traversed over to Upper Cirque from below upper step.
Climbed The Column all the way to the cool cave in one mega pitch and Peterson-Samridge Dihedral as well, great day out with Olivier Di Maria!

Highway 99 South – Pemberton/Whistler/Squamish

Lots of ice being toyed with in the Smoke Bluffs, a lot of it being thin and fragile. Ascents seem to be be limited to top rope so far (Loerlei, Funarama, etc.).
A Scottish Tale has been led with some challenging pro.
Further North, Kevin Carriere reports that Nintendo has beefed up a tad. Looks untouched since our hijinks on Dec 09.



Highway 1 – Hope & Fraser Canyon

Drew noted that the Hope area is coming in fat, but it is super duper snowy. About 30 cm in 24 hrs with more falling (Dec 10). So it is hard to judge the condition of less than vertical ice. If I (Drew) had been able to see what Mousetrap was like under the snow we might not have got on it. Crappy ice/slush, but lots of it.
Better Mousetrap in better shape except top has not filled in yet.

Picadilly needs a few more days.
Lake of the Woods roadcut ice is good to go.
Sailor Bar is thin and has a couple holes on p2.
Superheroes routes are close to touching down.

Marc-André LeClerc found good conditions at Superheroes Cirque, only going to improve.
Kryptonite – Appeared in reasonable condition to lead but didn’t want to solo it.
Climbed Riddler, in good technical shape. Some tricky bits with fragile features. Although short (20m of WI5) the technical nature makes it feel sustained.
Mr. Freeze needs time to solidify.
Ultrawoman appeared IN but snowy in the less steep bits.



  1. Hey Adrian!

    I like to summary view you do so we can see all the info in one post, rather than scrolling through different threads. Then again, I like old skool ways of doing things 🙂

    Sent from my iPhone


  2. I love your summaries of it all.

    Thanks for keeping the stoke high.

    Today we climbed Where is Uwomen with chuck Norris variation to the pillar as I was not stoked on its shape after attempting to lead it and down climbing after to good gear could be found. CNorris is a fun variation only brought 2 beaks with me and used them both (yellow or blue tcu and a number 2 would give you some gear for the dry tooling around the chick stone. Made a belay under the chock stone by slinging it. M6r is a good rating to the variation. Lots of snow on route made it feel like a small alpine outing. Lots of rotten ice with water running.


    Sent from my iPhone

  3. I also like the summaries of it all. The website is better for searching and longer term reports/archive. I only use Facebook for very recent reports.

  4. Update grade to M5r

    Sent from my iPhone

  5. As someone who doesn’t want to deal with the hassle of having a Facebook account, I would be rather sad to see this stop.

  6. Thanks for all the positive comments, everyone! I will keep it going. 🙂


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