Posted by: westcoastice | December 8, 2016

December 8, 2016 Ice Climbing Report

If you haven’t already noticed, it’s snowing in the Lower Mainland!! Lot’s of precipitation and cold temperatures in the last week and into the next few weeks should set us up for the start of the season. Granted some things will be in thin and un-hacked-out early season conditions, but the ice is starting…

I’ve seen a few posts on our Facebook Group, for the Duffey and Squamish. I’ll summarize below.

I am sure quite a few of you will be out searching for ice this weekend, so email me some pictures and reports of what you find!

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Maarten drove north from Squamish yesterday (Dec 7), up the Duffey, finding temps of -6C North of Whistler to -16C by Joffre Creek. See the Facebook group for pics.
Rambles looked good
Honeyman Falls looked like open water.

Highway 99 South – Squamish/Whistler

Samuel Lambert climbed A Scottish Tale on Wednesday with Josh Zahl, hooking the phallic stalactite on pitch 5. Route is in but thin and runout, every pitch had some heady sections. Approached from the Mamquam road and walked off, took about an hour and a half from the car to the base, pretty heinous bushwalking but mostly flat the whole way. Get on it before it gets covered in snow!

Note on walk-off: The topout is very close to the viewing platform for the Sea-to-Sky gondola, and there is a trail from there to the gondola and then a road back down

Pic from Facebook:

Jean-Marc Savoie (on Dec 8) was fortunate enough to be able to top rope solo Alice on Ice near Zombie Roof in the Smoke Bluffs (pics on Facebook). Someone else had also climbed it. It’s in very thin conditions. Best to stay to the right hand side where I found a thicker vein of ice. Also some Scottish moss in frozen cracks. Best thing to do in Squamish with only a couple hours to get out. Heres hoping for snow so other lines can have a better water supply. Also took a pic of the gnarly curtain mixed route which isn’t even near in.

Mystery Roach Hotel is forming, currently disconnected drips and icicles (on Dec 7).


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