Posted by: westcoastice | February 11, 2016

February 11, 2016 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Wes)

A compilation of Wes Dyck’s report on The Plum and Marble and some Facebook posts.

Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon

(Marc-André Leclerc) Wishful thinking led me to the Bridge River Canyon this morning (Feb 9), only to find shitfuck conditions and +5ºC temps. Salvaged the day by climbing a few routes on the Duffey.

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Dan Canton and I (Wes Dyck) went to Marble on Wednesday, Feb 3, and found glorious conditions. We climbed all 3 pitches of Icy BC. Ice was completely dry other than the third pitch which was spraying a bit. We also troproped Deeping Wall Direct which was beaten out but a lot of fun. (a 70m rope is perfect for TR ing from all the new chains).

(Matt Kennedy) The annual VOC Daughter of Ice trip happened at Marble Canyon this past weekend (Feb 8-9). There was still plenty of ice when we left on Monday, but it was getting wet, and I’m sure it won’t stay for long. A person-sized chunk of the second pitch of Icy BC fell off sometime Sunday night, but it still goes. Temps were slightly chilly at night and pretty warm during the day.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

(Scott Brown, Feb 8) Rambles were fat. We climbed Rambles Right, and it didn’t seem particularly wet. Definitely not flowing. Temps sat were about 40ºF, and Sunday I think just below freezing, maybe 28ºF. (Some pics below, including The Tube)

(Marc-André Leclerc, Feb 9) Climbed Loose Lady, Carl’s Berg and Closet Secrets. It does not feel like winter at all up there sadly, and the ice is very much on its way out.

Loose Lady went on the left, super wet on the right. Not hard climbing, but mushroom edges were less than ideal consistency for hooking, kind of soft. It’s just warm.

Carl’s Berg was in the best nick of the three, a bit hooked out though and covered in v-threads. Felt to me like easy, fun, straightforward conditions.

Closet Secrets had pretty unhealthy feeling ice, and Shreddie is definitely going to fall down soon. Nice route, but probably best avoided at this point.

(from Peter Watson; an older report I [Adrian Burke] missed my last West Coast Ice blog post, but great pictures of Closet Secrets) Another quality day (Feb 1) on the ice around Lillooet. Climbed Closet Secrets today. Route was in quality shape. Small rock rack and about 3 stubbies should suffice. No pins needed, nuts and a couple of smaller cams worked well. 2 bolt anchor at start, two bolt anchor at second ledge, new sling and biner around top tree. 70m rap back to first station, which we also replaced cord and quicklink.

Temp was -3ºC for a low today. No water really on the route.

Highway 99 South – Whistler/Pemberton

Dan Canton and I (Wes Dyck) hiked into The Plum on Jan.30. Dan and partner had done The Plum Lite 6 days earlier in fat conditions.

The picture tells the tale. Six days of double digit temps (Celsius) killed the first pitch.  I was emphatically told that my membership in the coastal ice climbers group was under review due to my pessimism and unwillingness to scramble around the mess of the first pitch.

However; with diligent research into the new cold snap we went out to on Wednesday Feb.3 and found glorious conditions and climbed all 3 pitches of Icy BC (Marble Canyon).

The membership review was dropped and I became a member of good standing. Wew!

On a side note (not to diminish the beauty and challenge of coastal ice), Dan and I climbed Borgeau Right (Canadian Rockies) which was an awesome WI4 that should not be missed. Shiny rap anchors all the way up and a couple of great pillers on the first pitch. Another beauty was Parting Gift WI3 in Peter Lougheed that is at the end of an amazing slot canyon and also Super Bok (see pic of the tunnel pitch!) was climbed with Safety Specialist Conrad Janzen on the January 5th.

Highway 5 – Coquihalla Highway

(Cyrus Eduljee, Feb 9) The Grim Reaper in Box Canyon is pretty much non-existent. Not sure about the other routes further back, but it was ~3ºC and we could hear ice crashing down all over the place, so instead we went to play on the dry tool routes put up by Peter Watson. Should have gone to Lillooet instead… On the plus side, it was a great day for rock climbing in Squamish today.



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