Posted by: westcoastice | February 6, 2016

February 6, 2016 Ice Climbing Report (FB)

Posts from the last week on our Facebook Group.
The Bridge River, Marble and Duffey reports are from Mauro Pizzarelli, with Don Montrichard and Jack, as well as Matt Kennedy. Nite n’ Gale report and picture of The Theft from Peter Watson. Photo of The Gift from Elena Hanajenko. Lyle Knight photo of Mythologic.

Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon

Honeyman Falls – Left hand side open and flowing, right hand side had ice, but might be out – Viewed from the highway to Marble. – Feb 1

Salmon Stakes – the sections between the WI2/3 steps was kind of rotten, but got good the higher you went. This is a must do, such an adventurous route! – Jan 31
Hell’s Creek – flowing strong at the road, not sure how this correlates to the routes higher up. – Jan 31
Bridge River, in general – a lot of surviving ice, a lot of stuff still in. – Jan 31

Nite n’ Gale – (Peter Watson) Fun day up on the Bridge River today (Feb 2). Bailed on plans to check out The Gift as we were climbing as a group of three and I just felt we wouldn’t make it to the top. So instead we settled for Nite n’ Gale.

Nite n’ Gale had avalanched in the last cycle which made for easy travel on the approach and the slope between the first and second pitches. First pitch has lots of holes and open water but was easily avoidable. Second pitch just left of the hole, major crack in pillar overhanging the rock so took right line to the top of this pitch.

Approach note: Follow our tracks, but right after leaving the river follow our tracks left and towards the correct gulley, much more direct approach, then our switch backs up through the forest to the right, but this way also worked easily enough. Temps were -11ºC this am (Feb 2) and -8ºC at 4pm back at the car.

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Crowd warning: a group of up to 15 VOCers will be at Marble Canyon on the February long weekend (Feb. 6-8). Of course, we’ll share the wall and the fun with anyone else who’s there!

Icy BC is picked out, more of a stair master on the right-hand-most side. The lower walls were dripping wet but still climbed well. We TR’ed Deeping Wall which was awesome. 2nd tier of Icy BC looked like it wouldn’t go, 3rd pitch looks good though (from a distance). – Feb 1

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Back from a fun 4 day trip based out of Lillooet. First day climbed Rambles Left and Center, day 2 we climbed Salmon Stakes (although as a group of 3, we didnt finish it, see above), day 3 was Marble Canyon, and day 4 we tried for Belmore but it didn’t look great up close, so we went back to the Rambles

Rambles Center is fat, including top sections. We climbed through the 2 pitches on Center, and got to the Top Tier. Some chandeliered ice on the steeper stuff, the WI3 on the very right was plastic. We were quite tired at this point and called it a day, but it looked really good up here. – Jan 30, Feb 2

Rambles_Centre_6Feb16

Leading Rambles Centre (Mauro Pizzarelli)

Rambles Left is still good to go for a while more – Jan 30
Belmore Gully – not looking great, but access is much improved. Some folks installed a tyrolean across the river, looks like a lot of time and effort was spent on this – Thank you!! Look for lime green tape at the apex of the turn on which you can see Belmore Gully. Feb 2

Steve Miller Band is repetitive after a couple hours – bring more than 1 cd for trips this long – Jan 30-Feb 2

Rambles Right (Matt Kennedy with Jake Taylor Jones and David Hurley, Jan 30-31) was in good shape, too. The bottom tier was fine. The top tier left pitch looked hard and somewhat chandeliered. I climbed the right pitch, and descended on a V-thread.

Highway 5 – Coquihalla – Box Canyon

Reposting a comment from Wes Dyck from the Jan 29 Post: On Jan. 16 2016, Mitch S-C and Wes Dyck climbed Truth to the top of the canyon in a rope stretcher of 60m. Ice ran out and was steep snow and intermittent ice to the rim. Agree with Dan’s WI4 rating.

We traversed left to the top Scotch on the Rocks on steep snow about a pitch and set up a toprope in the running water. We beefed up the anchor with another 7mm cord and added a locking biner to the existing single biner anchor. 55m. When Scotch is in it is a hard and sweet WI4+

Probably thinned out by now with the warm temps!

Highway 97 – Enderby Cliffs

Mythologic (see pic from January 30, 2016) – Lyle Knight reported: good to see it still standing despite the recent conditions. Expect it may need a couple of weeks below zero to recoup.

Mythologic_6Feb16

Mythologic on Jan 30 (Lyle Knight)

 

 


Responses

  1. Hey Adrian Didn’t see it in the report but Peter and company climbed Closet Secrets the day before Night N Gale as well. Route climbed well with a couple stubbies and some nuts. Just incase you wanted to add it. Allistar hit it up again yesterday and it looked to be in the same shape. Cheers

    Peter Watson Course Director/ Volunteer Coordinator Fat Dog 120 August 12-14th, 2016 Cathedral, Manning and Skagit Valley Provincial Parks Course Director/ Volunteer Coordinator Iron Knee/ Tender Knee and Hallow’s Eve October 24th, 2015 North Vancouver, BC http://www.mountainmadness.ca

    Date: Sun, 7 Feb 2016 00:00:33 +0000 To: peterandmountain@hotmail.com

    • Great! I will add it to today’s report. Cheers. Just posted (Feb 11).


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