Posted by: westcoastice | January 22, 2016

January 22, 2016 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Peter)

Avalanche Hazard: Conditions are ripe for an impressive avalanche cycle on the South Coast of BC today (Jan 21), according to Avalanche Canada (CBC REPORT).

Rockfall Issues: Reminder that warm weather around Lillooet, particularly in the canyons, leads to serious rockfall as well as snow avalanches. Drive BC @DriveBC 3h3 hours ago –> #‎BCHWY40‬ CLOSED 90km west of junction with ‪#‎BCHWY99‬ in ‪#‎Lillooet‬ at Mintos bluff because of avalanche. No detour in place.

Below are a set of reports from Peter Watson and compiled from our Facebook Group.

Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon

Honeyman Falls is in an thick (see pics below)

19-1-16 (Dave Brown):
Hell Creek was flowing heavily again.
Plan B had decent ice low but the top part, on the right-hand, lower-angled, side, was completely rotted out. The last couple of body lengths involved hooking mud and I swatted a mosquito. The left-side had some steeper ice which looked to be maybe WI4- and might have been ok, but I didn’t climb it.

20-1-16 (Dave Brown):
El Nino was not climbable.
The Groke was in great shape but, with very little snow, the approach is quite difficult. The river seemed higher on the way out than it was on the way in – it was just over hip-wader depth on the return crossing.
Wishful Thinking looked in from the road but I didn’t go up to it.

Reported last week by Peter… lots of ice.

Old Dogs, New Picks – thick with tonnes of ice above the climb
Steri Strip – thick and looked fun
Salmon Stakes – thick looking
Shriek of Sheep – (see pics below) quality fun, great climbing and tons of ice. Be prepared for the river crossing; hip-waders are recommended
Black Bird – looks fatter than ever in my history looking at it. Two pillars with the right one looking like the choice and the slab looked thick.
Night n Gale – looked great
Capricorn – looked great
4 dressed up as a 6 – completely formed and looked big, and the pillar to the left, is also formed
The Theft – lots of ice in there and looked complete other then what you can’t see in the chimney
The Gift – looks amazing, but can’t really view the bottom pillar or scope the first pitch that well.

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Klingon M8 20m FA Garry Brace January 20, 2016
New Marble Canyon mixed route – Klingon M8 (?) – see pic below.
Route is immediately left of the 2nd pitch of IcyBC and has 7 bolts. The first bolt is high and should be stick-clipped.


Garry Brace leading Klingon (new mixed route next to P2 of Icy BC)

Again, from last week’s report from Peter…

Top Tier (parallel to the 3rd pitch of Icy BC:
Air Care – looked great
No Deductible – forming well
Icy BC, pitch 3 – wet and lots of unconsolidated columns.
Body Shop – not in

CROWD WARNING #1 (Marcus Tomlinson): 10 people from the Vancouver Rock Climbing Group will be at Marble Canyon on Saturday Jan 22nd and Sunday Jan 23rd. We will certainly allow others to work in and share routes.

CROWD WARNING #2 (Matt Kennedy): There will be a group of up to 8 VOCers at Marble Canyon on the weekend of Jan. 30 – 31. Of course, they will share the wall, the fun, and the fire!

CROWD WARNING #3 (Matt Kennedy): a group of up to 15 VOCers will be at Marble Canyon on the February long weekend (Feb. 6-8). Of course, we’ll share the wall and the fun with anyone else who’s there!

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Synchronicity area has lots of ice
Synchrotron and Mother looked to be complete with the dry tool variation to the second pitch.
There have been a couple of successful runs up Loose Lady very recently. Henrik Hinkkala reports (Jan 20) Loose Lady in wicked shape, no water running on the route, all internal, great pro. Just climbed it with Richard Be and Ryan Larkin. This will probably be around for a little while, and has been a long time since it has been in. Highly recommend taking day off work to get it done.
On Saturday (Jan 16), Peter Watson and I (Jean-Marc Savoie) finally sent the infamous Loose Lady (WI 5) on the Duffey lake road. Peter did an amazing job working his way through the crux pitches. He went up and stayed right until going through an ice tunnel to a large belay ledge under the upper pillar. He then took the left side into the back cave. Around to the other side and straight up. Burly and fun! Temp around 0 to -2. Mostly great ice.
Bruce and Lyle comments RE: Loose Lady – there’s a few drainages to be avoided when the avalanche hazard is up, and this is one of them. There’s big, open terrain above and it’s common to see big debris right down to Hwy 99 at a his location. IMO I’d wait a few days for conditions to stabilize. Loose Lady is by far one of the higher risk ice climbs in the corridor, yet because it is not apparent, often unsuspected.

Pics from Eric Hughes of Red Wall Wanderers, Tres Burly and Dunkin’ Donuts (new route) below…

Dunkin’ Donuts WI3+/4- 60m FA Eric Hughes Sarah Hart & Ian Bennett January 21, 2016


After the most minimal amount of research I’m (Eric) going to say this is a new route? 60m long, WI3+/4-, three steeper tiers with easy ice between. Small alcove at the top with thick enough ice to rap off. Bring a few extra stubbies. Located 75m down hill from Red Wall Wanderers, 25m left of Playing Hooky. Dunkin’ Donuts is worth climbing if you have made the effort to go climb RWW, but it’s not in.

Highway 97 – Enderby Cliffs

Wicked-fun day on Mythologic with Matt Maddaloni and Bruce Kay – Lyle Knight (Lyle’s report and photos below)

Mythologic near Enderby BC is in very good condition, the aspect and valley overcast is helping it continue to grow. Good trail beat in, a gradual 2.5hrs to the base, take snowshoes! A couple of minutes into the hike take the left branch onto the new Parks trail. After about 20 minutes (1st switchback) head off the end onto our trail, mostly ribboned if it gets snowed over.

Note: our ropes got stuck on the final rap (dusk), if you head up it would be appreciated if you could send them down and I’ll retrieve in a few weeks, please let me know!


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