Avalanche Hazard: Conditions are ripe for an impressive avalanche cycle on the South Coast of BC today (Jan 21), according to Avalanche Canada (CBC REPORT).
Rockfall Issues: Reminder that warm weather around Lillooet, particularly in the canyons, leads to serious rockfall as well as snow avalanches. Drive BC @DriveBC 3h3 hours ago –> #BCHWY40 CLOSED 90km west of junction with #BCHWY99 in #Lillooet at Mintos bluff because of avalanche. No detour in place.
Below are a set of reports from Peter Watson and compiled from our Facebook Group.
Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon
Honeyman Falls is in an thick (see pics below)
19-1-16 (Dave Brown):
Hell Creek was flowing heavily again.
Plan B had decent ice low but the top part, on the right-hand, lower-angled, side, was completely rotted out. The last couple of body lengths involved hooking mud and I swatted a mosquito. The left-side had some steeper ice which looked to be maybe WI4- and might have been ok, but I didn’t climb it.
20-1-16 (Dave Brown):
El Nino was not climbable.
The Groke was in great shape but, with very little snow, the approach is quite difficult. The river seemed higher on the way out than it was on the way in – it was just over hip-wader depth on the return crossing.
Wishful Thinking looked in from the road but I didn’t go up to it.
Reported last week by Peter… lots of ice.
Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
Klingon M8 20m FA Garry Brace January 20, 2016
New Marble Canyon mixed route – Klingon M8 (?) – see pic below.
Route is immediately left of the 2nd pitch of IcyBC and has 7 bolts. The first bolt is high and should be stick-clipped.
Again, from last week’s report from Peter…
Air Care – looked great
CROWD WARNING #1 (Marcus Tomlinson): 10 people from the Vancouver Rock Climbing Group will be at Marble Canyon on Saturday Jan 22nd and Sunday Jan 23rd. We will certainly allow others to work in and share routes.
CROWD WARNING #2 (Matt Kennedy): There will be a group of up to 8 VOCers at Marble Canyon on the weekend of Jan. 30 – 31. Of course, they will share the wall, the fun, and the fire!
CROWD WARNING #3 (Matt Kennedy): a group of up to 15 VOCers will be at Marble Canyon on the February long weekend (Feb. 6-8). Of course, we’ll share the wall and the fun with anyone else who’s there!
Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
On Saturday (Jan 16), Peter Watson and I (Jean-Marc Savoie) finally sent the infamous Loose Lady (WI 5) on the Duffey lake road. Peter did an amazing job working his way through the crux pitches. He went up and stayed right until going through an ice tunnel to a large belay ledge under the upper pillar. He then took the left side into the back cave. Around to the other side and straight up. Burly and fun! Temp around 0 to -2. Mostly great ice.
Bruce and Lyle comments RE: Loose Lady – there’s a few drainages to be avoided when the avalanche hazard is up, and this is one of them. There’s big, open terrain above and it’s common to see big debris right down to Hwy 99 at a his location. IMO I’d wait a few days for conditions to stabilize. Loose Lady is by far one of the higher risk ice climbs in the corridor, yet because it is not apparent, often unsuspected.
Highway 97 – Enderby Cliffs
Wicked-fun day on Mythologic with Matt Maddaloni and Bruce Kay – Lyle Knight (Lyle’s report and photos below)
Mythologic near Enderby BC is in very good condition, the aspect and valley overcast is helping it continue to grow. Good trail beat in, a gradual 2.5hrs to the base, take snowshoes! A couple of minutes into the hike take the left branch onto the new Parks trail. After about 20 minutes (1st switchback) head off the end onto our trail, mostly ribboned if it gets snowed over.
Note: our ropes got stuck on the final rap (dusk), if you head up it would be appreciated if you could send them down and I’ll retrieve in a few weeks, please let me know!