Posted by: westcoastice | January 14, 2016

January 14, 2016 Ice Climbing Report (Facebook again…)

Documenting the very active West Coast Ice Facebook group, for those of you not already active participants… I didn’t get time to steal/post all the pics, but you can find more on the FB Group.

General Crowd Warning (Jennifer Carter): 5 climbers from the Seattle Mountaineers ice climbing program will be in the Lillooet area this weekend. 2 of us mentors and 3 beginners. We’re nice and happy to share routes/ let others pass/ move on over so just give us a heads up if we’re gumming up a route you want to be on. See you out there!

Highway 40 – Lillooet

(Jason Callum) Climbed on Honeyman Falls on Sunday (Jan 11). We stopped and warmed up/ did laps on the bottom 35ish m. Another party showed up and they went to the top.


Honeyman Falls on Sunday (Jan 11)

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

I (Jeremy Thom) ran an intro to ice course this weekend.

Saturday we were at Oregon Jack. Conditions were much as Drew Bradshaw described not long ago: very cold, hard, brittle, dry ice that fractured a lot. Hard work to get sticks, especially for the poor crew who was swinging tools for the first time. Gear was a wee bit thought provoking. On the other hand, the ice was highly featured, mushroomed, and chandeliered, which made for really interesting fun climbing. Thanks to Lyle Knight for putting chains in the half-height cave. They were pretty iced over and could become difficult to find, but roughly they are right in the middle of the cave.

Of note, a couple from Kamloops, Jack and Steph, wandered by and took a lap to the top. Jack said the ice got worse the higher he went.

Add’l comment from Jack Stratton: As far as conditions, I got a couple screws just above the belay cave, but most of my screws in p2 were worthless.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Comments from Drew RE: Belmore Gully conditions –>  It’s -4 and sunny at the webcam right now, I expect that deep snow and avvy hazard are the biggest concerns. South Coast Inland has moderate hazard with possible buried hoar layers, something to think about…

Highway 99 South – D’Arcy/Pemberton/Whistler

We (Alexander Weber and Mandy Wong) climbed Entropy (WI3, 120m, Pemberton) on Saturday (Jan 10). I think we made it to 100m before it started to get dark. The top looked a little thin, like the description in the book says it might. Approach hike it kicked in steps.

Peter Watson added a comment on Alexander’s photo –> thats the most ice i have seen on Fig Plucker and Plucker’s Son for several years.

Jody Sutherland added –> There was a Big Cougar on the tracks (railroad) just below the climb this afternoon (Jan 11). Keep your tools handy on the approach. Eh.


Entropy on Sat (Jan 10). Fir Plucker and Fig Plucker’s Son also in view.

Sunday we (Jeremy Thom’s intro ice course) lapped the first pitch of The Plum. I’ve probably been there a dozen times and by far it was in the best shape I’ve ever seen. Lots of smooth, uniform, generally plastic ice. Way better than when Eric Bites and I were up there the weekend before. Any number of lines possible. Could have had 3 TR’s set up there. Another party was ahead of us and went to the second tier, which they reported was in nice shape.

I don’t have anything useful to add to other reports that have been posted recently about Birken/Fraser Canyon, other than that White Blotter looks like the first pitch is only a few feet at most from touching down, but it doesn’t look quite ready yet.

Mauro Pizzarelli and Don Montrichard report… Some stuff in around Birkenhead, or just about in.
1) High up on the hill above Roadside Attraction there’s some ice (20-25m, WI3ish – apparently later identified as Drive By Shooting) that was thin down low, so we top-roped it. Lots of variety in here, but mostly short routes.
Drive-by Shooting: 30m M8. Jayson Green & Gavin Duffell sometime in 2008. 100m down the tracks from Roadside Attraction. Climb 15m of WI2 to a two-bolt anchor, then up steeply overhanging rock past 5 bolts with fixed draws to a final dagger. Chain anchor, lower off.
2) Roadside attraction was in, but lots of water running down on the left hand most routes, ice was delaminating. The route itself was fun though.
3) Hollow Quest for Glory was mostly in, except for a bit of hollowness
4) We also checked out Class Is In Session. It’s coming in, but still spots with quite a bit of water running behind a thin screen of ice. Maybe a week of colder weather will see it form up. I walked up to a viewpoint above the first steeper section, about two minute’s hike from the road. Looked interesting, book says 200 metres.

Highway 99 South – Squamish

Today (Jan 13) I (Jean-Marc Savoie) pruned the access trail to the top of Line Drive (WI2) at Murrin Park in Squamish. I also trimmed the branches around the main anchor tree at the top and replaced the webbing anchor. Furthermore I installed a rap anchor at the ledge below the top for when the final 15 feet of climbing is not safe to continue to the tree while on lead. The anchor is on the big Boulder which won’t get covered by snow or ice. (obviously currently this ice is out now), but it seems to be in for at least a week or 2 around Xmas this year and last.

Highway 3 – Sumallo Bluffs

Drew Bradshaw report from Saturday, Jan 10 –> Sumallo West across from 19 Mile Creek. Unclimbed drip is touching down (bottom) and double lines are in in upper gully (upper left). Fell off log into Sumallo River on the approach and suffered full immersion & had to retreat but these lines should stick around at least to tomorrow (Jan 11). Other Sumallo routes:
Landmark Curtain just touched down.
B/K and Crunchy Frog are in.
Anthrax Ripple is not in.
Mess routes and First Time Lucky are snowy




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