Posted by: westcoastice | January 8, 2016

January 7, 2016 Ice Climbing Report (Facebook Updates)

All reports and pictures are from our Facebook Group, over the last week or more.

Highway 40 – Lillooet

Dave Brown noted (on Jan 5): Bighorn Creek is in. Hell Creek Falls is climbable, too, though still hollow in places, especially the top 40 ft.

Drew Brayshaw later noted: if you stay in Lillooet on Saturday night, then Hell Creek Falls is well worth your attention as a Sunday destination rather than joining the crowds at Marble (see Crowd Warning below). Park just before Old Dogs, put your crampons on at the car, there’s a 20 minute ice approach up the drainage with some short bouldering steps, then a beautiful wide curtain you can set up easily 6 separate lines on, WI2+ to 4 possibilities.

Also, Kevin Aitken posted some pictures of Honeyman Falls and Cherry Ice from Wednesday, January 6.

ACCESS NOTES:¬†Some climbers have reported No Trespassing signs on the approach to Honeyman.¬†I (Lyle Knight) discussed the issue with someone from the District, they put the sign up years ago as it is a community watershed. They are no longer drawing water from this source, however it’s likely the folks downstream (Honey Farm) are using the water. Many moons ago I maintained a sign at the trailhead to make climber’s aware of the issue and to respect the water.

From the folks I talked with, the District is well aware of the importance of these resources to climbers and don’t want to be discouraging tourism (“Guaranteed Rugged!”), especially mid-winter! My contact will get the conversation going at the District office to provide further clarity and hopefully some new signs outlining the access rules.

In the meantime, I’d suggest it’s not necessary to avoid Honeyman, just access it respectfully (use the can before you go!). Alternatively, you could choose to drive up the dump road and hike in across the hillside (see Google Earth) and traverse in above the sign.

Highway 99 North – Oregon Jack & Marble Canyon

CROWD WARNING:¬†(Jeremy Thom) So¬†this weekend¬†the BCMC course will take place at Oregon Jack on Saturday (Jan 9). We’ll have 2 ropes up on it all day long. We’ll obviously play nice with anyone else who shows up, but I do note that there is lots of ice in out there… We’ll be somewhere on Sunday (Jan 10) as well. Good chance we’ll join what I assume will be a crowd at the bottom tier of Marble Canyon, but that decision won’t be made until I see how the participants are doing on WI3. I’ll post Saturday evening about our Sunday plans.

ACCESS NOTES: Oregon Jack (Lyle Knight)

Parking – there is limited space at the end of the road which is also necessary for plough truck and school bus turn-arounds. There’s quite a bit of new snow so just need to make sure everyone can get around. The MOTI contractor brought this to my attention on a trip out there;
Private Property/ Access – Park inside the provincial park, just off the snowmobiled road. Definitely pass through the gate in the fence… don’t climb the fence. As long as you’re on public land you’re golden;
Water/ Sanitation – The locals likely drawing their water from this source so probably a bit antsy over a group spending a day upstream of their wells – just need to make sure you’re having the conversation with your¬†group beforehand. I ¬†(Lyle) put a set of chains in the cave at mid-height to reduce the amount of tat, as well.

Highway 99 South – Pemberton/ Mount Currie/ D’Arcy

Drew Brayshaw’s post on Jan 3, plus many pics below:¬†Climbed Roadside Attraction in the Birken Valley with Graham Rowbotham today. Climb is in good shape and takes screws up to 19 cm. Mix of plastic and brittle ice. The climb is a full 60 m from the bottom ledge to the top-out, although the lower half is easy rambling. Lots of choice of slung trees at the top for rappels. There are new powerline access roads that make the approach even easier. Park in pullout 7.1 km north of RR tracks crossing at Mt Currie Reserve and walk up steep powerline roads until below ice, then bushwack up steep forested scree for 2-3 minutes to the ice. Crampons helpful for last 10 m of approach.

Other conditions observed in Birken Valley today (Jan 3). Other no-photo conditions updates:
White Blotter lower curtain just touched down, upper curtain not touching down yet.
Lodge Falls non-existant as always (maybe only ever formed once?)
Deception a thin smear bottom to top, looked hard to protect
Candlewax is discontinuous blobs. Not a viable ice route yet.
Class In Session might have the odd hole but is probably good to go. I climbed this once a long time ago and if you like “approach ice” without any climb attached, this is the route for you!
– did not see Rusty or Mild Thing

Mauro Pizzarelli provided pictures of White Blotter, PC Valentine and The Plum below.

Eric Hughes climbed The Plum on Jan 3. Reporting on the top tier —¬†Ice was good on the steep section but mushroomed above and below.

Highway 99 South – Whistler

Eric Hughes reported on The Office (Backcomb) on Dec 31 and on Suicide Bluffs today (Jan 7). All lines on the Suicide Bluffs are a delicate top rope or a bold lead. Mauro Pizzarelli provided pictures of Cal Chek

Highway 1 – Fraser Valley

Report from Jeff Aslan (Jan 4): Got on Mousetrap yesterday. Lots of running water underneath the surface of the ice but only punched through once. I imagine it might be good for 1 more day before the warmup forecasted for later this week. We made up the first four pitches until we came to an open hole that would have taken some funky moves to get around. A Better Mousetrap was a little thinner, but less running water underneath and looked like it would go.

Highway 1 – Sicamous

Guide available here Guide for the Malakwa Ice Routes

Peter Watson’s initial report from January 2:

Rest Stop – forming well with lots of running water and spray from the upper pillars. Climbed to just the bolted anchor and rapped top pitch Could use a bit more filling in. Was climbing with my GF and she was not having so much fun.

C People Play – continuous ice top to bottom, put a trail in to the base of the route hope to get back this Wednesday to give a run at it and will update then.

Peter’s follow-up Jan 7 Report:

Got up C People Play today (Jan 7) in WI4 condition. It was climbed in 3 pitches with some pretty terrible ice for the top out. All pitches sounded hollow and unless it gets cold again this climb might be better off left alone. New cord on biggest tree at center of top tier, one 70m rappel gets you down from the top. Crampons needed for top 60m of approach especially on the descent.

ACCESS NOTES: New info on parking and permission to cross private land. John, who is the owner of Dari farm which is directly across from this climb, is the person to ask. We chatted with him and he gave us the ok to climb as well as to park in his driveway. He would like to be consulted before you just go wherever you want.




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