Posted by: westcoastice | January 7, 2016

January 6, 2016 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Clark)

Highway 99 North – Oregon Jack

I (Clark Bostrom) climbed Oregon Jack on New Years Day with JD. It was about -12ºC and the ice was hard and brittle. Awkward and featured climbing in a fine setting. Worth the effort of getting out there for sure.

(see photo at the bottom of today’s report)

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

We (Clark and JD) climbed Synchronicity on January 2 (see photo below). Tried out both approaches mentioned in the guidebook. Dropping down from up the road is about 20 minutes faster than walking in from the bridge. The Tyrollean Traverse makes crossing the river easy. Approach from the car to the base of the ice is challenging due to the 2 inches of hoar. Slippery rocks and gravel make it treacherous. Some of that heavy coastal snow would help! About 2 hours.

Bring a few stubbies to supplement your regular rack. The ice gets thicker on the long ramp. Sun affected for the top of the ramp and the glory pitch.  Lots of water flowing til you get back in the trees. Cold on the top 15 m pitch. How can one tiny stream (6 inches by 1 inch) not be frozen and feed such a massive climb?

One trick for the descent: At the top of the ramp pitch traverse skiers right to a tree with an orange cord.  Rappel straight down 65m to base of ramp.

11 hours car to car. And as Don Serl says, bring a headlamp.

We (Clark and JD) climbed Carl’s Berg on Sunday morning (January 3). Dry and gnarly looking on the left but dry. Lots of wild cauliflowers. Quite wet in the middle and on the right despite being -10ºC or so. Bold lead, no matter which line you choose.


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