Posted by: westcoastice | December 29, 2015

December 29, 2015 Ice Climbing Report

Compiled from our Facebook Group

Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon

Report from Drew Brayshaw.
The Walrus at Carpenter Lake. On the FA in 2007, we soloed some approach ice to get to the base of the route. Today (Dec 28), that approach ice was scary, poorly protected M4. Got to the base, main pitch of the route was detached from the rock behind and 5cm thick. 😩
Night n Gale overview. Upper curtain more like two separate lines right now.
Blackbird Pillar on the left just touching down, not very big.
Mix Master J and The Virgin on the right are pretty much just icicles. Nothing continuous over there yet.
Photo conditions report (see below) for as many of the Bridge River climbs as I (Drew) could shoot.
Not shown:
Taikonaut was in the clouds, no idea where Center Line is.
Boulder Creek Falls was running and wet.
Cedarvale Falls was running water at the road.
Hell Creek had running water at the road.
Michelmoon had a big hole.
Jade Falls main column had touched down.
No sign of Xwisten Steps or Suncatcher.
Terzaghi Falls curtain had three separate small pillars touching down, none was very big around.
Troubled Waters was in.
Drake had a hole.

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Report from Dec 26 (Saturday) by Blob Loblaw.
The Dihedral is not formed at all.
All 3 pitches of Icy BC are in and fairly solid, under a layer of some chose. The third pitch looked the best, but no pics as it was night by then.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Super cold! Weather network said -12ÂșC in Pemberton. Back pack analog thermometer said -12 in Duffey. Drew noted -4ÂșC at the Rambles.

Today, Ryan Larkin and I (Jean-Marc Savoie) tried Carl’s Berg and got up half way and bailed due to very reactive (fracturing) conditions (-13ÂșC). The Berg is climable, but feels like expert conditions (spicy). On we went to Closet Secrets (since Shreddie seemed to have lots of ice). Ice on Closet was thin, but nice to swing into. Scarce pro. Backed off at the second crux above the cave. Worth re-assessment in a few days!

Drew Bradshaw reporting on the DuffeyRambles Left lower tiers were pretty lean. The short WI3 finish through the cave and gully on the right were in and had enough ice to be protectable. No ice at all on the left hand line above half-height. Did not hike up to the Upper Tier or Polish Wall.

Jeremy Thom’s report… A new personal best: shut down on 2 routes in one day today (Dec 27).

Eric Bites and I (Jeremy Thom) tried Loose Lady. Not entirely sure we did the approach correctly. After 10-15 min in the trees we dropped into the gulley. Rather than a 50m pitch of 3 as described in the guide, we soloed about 150m of rambling brushy creek bed with about 5 brief steps of WI2/3ish ice and some deepish pools (sploosh!! $@&&!!!!). Each successive step got thinner, wetter, and more detached. Gave up just under a big chockstone. It looked like if we could have passed that, we might have been in the amphitheatre, but we never even caught a glimpse of the main event. Attached is a pic of what turned us around.

We (Eric & Jeremy) then tried The Tube, which looked blue from the road. From up close it looked wet, thin, chandeliered, and soft, and worse the higher you go. We couldn’t even get to the base. Unless there is some trick to the approach, it looks like you have to climb the gulley below the pillar for a few short steps. Those steps were thin, detached, broken, and snowed over. We had had enough of that already for the day.

In other news, Synchronicity looked interesting. We saw it in dim light, but it looked thin but in. The lowest pitch seemed thinnest though. No promises.


Highway 99 South – Whistler

Just so everyone knows while driving back we (Jean-Marc Savoie & Ryan Larkin) put eyes on Entropy at Soo Bluffs between Whistler and Pemberton. It looks fat! Worth the hike.


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