Posted by: westcoastice | March 2, 2015

March 2, 2015 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks William)

Highway 99 South – Whistler/Pemberton

Ice season isn’t over, it’s just higher!

NEW ROUTE

Global Warming WI4 R 70 meters FA William Ferguson and Guy Wigham

On the bluffs above Wedgemount Lake, a thin line of snowmelt ascends 70m up a chimney formation. The route is mostly alpine ice, with a few sections of stiff snow. The crux is a 10m vertical pillar that is thin and difficult to protect, with unconsolidated snow at the bottom (marginal rock pro available…. take pins). The crux section leads into clear lovely ice above. Alternating ice and snow bands above lead to a snow slope and the final 20m of ice. Single rap from the top on double 70’s. The route is protectable with screws, but rock gear is useful for belays. Route was done in 2 pitches, a 50m and a 20m pitch.

Historical Reference – During an El Niño event in 1997, the climb Keener 70 m WI4 was done off the Wedgemount Lake trail by Sean Miller and Erich Dierks. It’s about 1 km before the hut and lake are reached, making Global Warming something new.


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