Posted by: westcoastice | January 26, 2015

January 26, 2015 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Peter and Jeremy)

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

I (Peter) climbed at Marble Canyon on Saturday (Jan 24), after first driving up the Bridge River Canyon. Rockfall on the Bridge River road, routes and parking scared us away.

I led Deeping Wall centre and the 2nd pitch of Icy BC and Air Care (third tier, next to Icy BC 3rd pitch) again. Fun day, best screws of the year and warm temps. Group of 8 VRCC dropped 6 ropes on the lower, 1st pitch tier. You do the math!

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Bruce – Jeremy encourages you to say “told you so!”. Serious rockfall was experienced.

We (Jeremy and BCMC group) went to The Tube, and it was half gone and the other half looked ready to go.

We went to the Rambles and ran into two other parties. Eric and Riley went Left and by all accounts had a great day on the lower angle stuff, with only some minor rockfall. Another party went Centre. I saw one guy at the top of the first pitch, but he was rapping. Not sure how their day went. The first Rambles Centre pitch looked to me still to be in excellent shape – fat, well supported, and actually mostly dry. We went Right.

The first pitch of Rambles Right was soaking wet with water pouring all over it. In parts it looked pretty detached, but overall there was still plenty of soft ice and there was a reasonable line up the middle. So we went up (getting drenched in the process) to suss out the stuff above. The Column still looked fat, and the PS Dihedral still looked pretty big and mostly well bonded and supported. Unfortunately, the same could not be said about the rock walls in that gully. As the third and fourth guys were coming up, a large volley of good sized rocks (i.e. best case scenario upon getting struck would be heli-vac) came down. Thankfully no one was hurt. Before they made it to the belay, another volley came down. And another. We bailed. As we were bailing, another volley came down.

We went back to consider the Centre line. Upon close inspection, we concluded (duh) “Same shitty rock; different pile,” at which point we bailed and came home.

So if it cools off again, Rambles would likely be fine. The Tube is going to have to fully reform before it is “in”. Overall, there was still quite a lot of ice all over the place, but it mostly looked wet and thinning, some was rotten, and most was delaminating. In particular, there is still a fair amount of ice in Belmore and Isodorth Gullies. Carl’s Berg looked quite fat and will hopefully survive at least a few more days of this garbage weather. Shreddie‘s dagger is even bigger than last weekend, but the mushroom-y first pitch looked pretty dire. At least the top of it, that we could see from the road. I would expect the bottom of that pitch to be even worse – it was slushy and not terribly fat even last weekend, when it was nice and cold.


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