Posted by: westcoastice | January 19, 2015

January 19, 2015 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Wes, Jia and Lyle)

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

On Sunday January 18, Mitch and I (Wes Dyck) climbed the first pitch of Icy BC and attempted the second pitch. Temperatures were -3ºC in the morning, rose to just above freezing and then back to -3ºC just before we left. On the second pitch, I climbed about 6’ short of the top and found a 5’ diameter window, stained glass thickness which opened with a tap of my hand. You could look down the whole tube which was about 4’ in diameter. Sobering! Managed to down-climb to the bottom on perfect plastic. We hiked up to the third tier and found the main tier to have numerous thin ice windows that were barely closed. We left it alone, hoping some cold weather would lead to increased ice formation. The very left side would have been climbable, but discontinuous.

It seems that in the last 2 weeks since we were here last, the second and third pitches have degraded. The Deeping Wall has leaned out as well, but I noticed that the drool on No Deductible (M4/5) had reached the lip of the cave and found the climbing easy (on TR).

Also, another pillar has formed on Deeping Wall right. Joe Wong from the BCMC crew led from inside the cave into a chimney/tunnel and exited with some great stem moves to the blue ice of the newly formed pillar. A great line that I had the pleasure to second.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

North Joffre Creek climbs – please remember the serious nature of this venue when avalanche hazards exist. Remember to check the avalanche conditions.

NEW ROUTE

Red Man’s Goulash WI3 5.9 3 pitches FA Troy Jungen and Jia Condon November 14, 2014
A new route left of Beeker’s Chimney. Two short pitches of WI3 and one long pitch with a narrow strip of ice ending in a 5.9 squeeze chimney with no ice. Bring small cams and one 4″ cam for the exit. This route was done with no snow at that elevation and now appears to be mostly snow covered.

NEW ROUTE

Some additional info on yesterday’s report on Hidden Agenda.

Hidden Agenda M6 2 pitches FA Tim Emmett, Kris Wild and Jia Condon January 14, 2015
A two pitch chimney 100 meters right of Tim and Jia’s previous FA earlier this month (The Golden Ticket). Stations are bolted and 2 protection bolts protects the entrance to the second pitch chimney. The climb is all ice (WI4++), except the final few meters exiting the chimney on good edges and jugs. Pitch 1 is the start of Roadside Redneckery. Roadside Redneckery pitch 2 goes right, and was very thin. There are 2 leads bolts on Hidden Agenda‘s pitch 2, and WI4 would be a sandbag.

North Okanagan – Enderby Cliffs

Eric Fagervik in Enderby, via Lyle, reports: “Looks like Mythologic is formed, judging from the view from my house. Fully connected and has been fattening up over the last week. All we need is some stable cold conditions.”


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