Posted by: westcoastice | January 18, 2015

January 19, 2015 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Bruce and Henrik)

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

For reports on Shreddie and Closet Secrets, see my post from Sunday morning.

Myself (Bruce Kay), Kris Wild, Tim Emmett and Jia Condon did an overnighter into North Joffre Creek last Tuesday and Wednesday. I went ski touring while the other guys had a go at Free Tibet. They got shut down by bolts buried under de-laminated ice and froth on pitch 2. Conditions may improve here with continued melt freeze conditions, as the ice volume is huge. As is, screw protection was “poor”.

NEW ROUTE
Hidden Agenda M6 2 pitches FA Tim Emmett, Kris Wild and Jia Condon January 14, 2015
Next day, Tim, Kris and Jia bagged a nice first ascent on a two pitch chimney 100 meters right of  Tim and Jia’s previous FA earlier this month (The Golden Ticket). Stations are bolted and 1 protection bolt protects the entrance to the second pitch chimney. The climb is all ice ( WI 4 ?), except the final few meters exiting the chimney on good edges and jugs.
Tim’s Facebook comments –> a two pitch M6 finishing up this esoteric chimney. Brilliant climbing, quite unusual and really interesting. I (Tim) took my helmet off, but still couldn’t fit through the squeeze so had to climb back down and around the overhang. Ice pipes above and then put away your axes and rock climb the finale – an off-width. Thanks for the photo and pointing me at this one @jiacondon and the team ascent Kris Wild.

As noted previously, the road is washed out at 0 km. With a saw it can likely be by-passed for a sled. Beyond the logging road, drop to and cross the creek then cross back and boot pack up a bit to bypass the bad alder patch that blocks the West side of the valley.

Generally, the very warm winter has spared this zone a bit, but it has clearly been borderline between melting out and formation.  Good luck with it.

On Jan 17, Richard Butler-Smythe and I (Henrik Hinkkala) went to Red Wall Wanderers. This area was new to me. With low expectations given the recent temps, we went on more of a reconnaissance climb, since there hasn’t been any postings on it so far this year. The first two pitches were in good shape and fun to climb, but the pillar was not looking great. A large section had fallen off and it appeared overall a lot smaller then other photos I’ve seen previous. The pillar was also extremely chandeliered and raining water on the backside. However, there was one aspect of the pillar that was mostly dry.

After hacking away for a bit at the start of the pillar, I concluded that it was probably physically climbable, but I didn’t feel like it was protectable. So we will have to come back again later when it’s more filled in.

Notes on the approach: The side-hilling on frozen dirt with a few inches of unconsolidated snow got old real fast. After both of us took a 20ft greasy tumble I put my crampons on. Once you get past the narrow canyon in the creek, with steep cliffs on your right side, immediately ascend the main slope to your left. This leads you to the base of the route that becomes visible once you round a corner under the large red cliff.

Along with pics of Red Wall Wanderers, below are also some zoomed in photos of Synchronicity for anyone’s interest.

 


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