Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
Hayley and I (Jeremy) went up to try Shreddie on Saturday (Jan 14). We climbed the first WI4 pitch on the extreme right side to mitigate hang-fire icicle danger. The pitch was wet, plastic, snowy, slushy, and basically in a shower the whole way, but super fun mushroom-y climbing. There was a bit of a spicy mixed chimney finish to get to the 3 bolt belay, in the cave below the dagger (which is dry and protected). From there, I tried the Prophets Wall, but after a couple falls on the first bolt, nearly spiking Hayley with my crampons, and not finding a single positive hold anywhere, we bailed. In retrospect, I think I ought to have down-climbed a bit from the belay, traversed right on some ice ledges, and then gone straight up fairly thick spray ice to join the route at the third bolt. There was lots of spray ice. Anyways… The first three bolts were obvious and free of ice. I couldn’t see the fourth, but the fifth was pretty obvious too, though encased in a thin layer of ice. I’m not sure where the bolts are above that, but the spray ice got thinner and thinner the higher it went, so they’re probably clean or at least visible. In any event, the dagger comes down so low that the fifth bolt is right around the level at which the ice bonds to the rock. There are only a couple meters of free hanging icicles at the bottom and the rest looks pretty well supported. It is super icicly, chandeliered, and aerated, but overall pretty fat. Long screws and you’d probably be good to go. Not that I managed to touch it. We contented ourselves with cutting away the rat’s nest and prettying up the anchor for the next party who should DEFINITELY try it.
Closet Secrets was in, but very thin. We didn’t get on it, but it would merit an R or even X rating on the lower half. From what I could tell, you’d be really lucky to get a full 13cm screw in crappy ice about 15m up. The upper pitch looked pretty fat.