Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon
We (Ryan Larkin & Jean-Marc Savoie) went and climbed Old Dogs, New Picks (Jan 12). It felt a solid WI5 with how wet and chandeliered it was; fun nonetheless. Many other climbs are in at the Bridge River Canyon. The Theft, Nite ‘n Gale and Shriek of Sheep all look climbable. It was about -7C in the Canyon. The roads are in great shape also.
We (Evelyne, Milan, Steven and Todd) climbed Night n’ Gale on Saturday, Jan 10. Temperatures in the Bridge River Canyon were lower than Lillooet (-2 to -4C). The creek crossing was mid-calf deep and offered no problem to cross. The approach (and the whole snow slope below the main flow) was very hard neve with recent signs of wet avalanches. Perfect terrain for avalanches if it snows again. The first pitch was thin, with running water to the right. Pitch 2 offered a nice vertical WI4 curtain, tricky to protect but easier to climb. The last pitch was well formed, with better ice.
Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
The Duffey is looking currently super fat. Today, Jan 12, we (Jean-Marc and Ryan) saw Shreddie lower than I have ever seen it.
On Sunday, Jan 11, we (Evelyne, Milan, Steven and Todd) headed to Loose Lady.
LOTS of running water and thin, opened ice on the approach sections and in the first WI3 pitch. We climbed the main flow of Loose Lady up to the cave, from the left. Tricky to protect. The pillar has a crack at the bottom throughout its whole width. We saw Paul trying it, but down climbed since every tool swing would vibrate down to his feet. We rapped from the abalakov in the cave. Quite a shower up there.
Society Girls behind is in, and saw some action this week-end; 2 parties climbed it.