Highway 99 North – Oregon Jack & Marble Canyon
Jeremy and his BCMC group climbed Oregon Jack on Saturday (Jan 10). Oregon Jack was in excellent shape. A little thin at the roof, but otherwise fat.
They climbed at Marble Canyon on Sunday (Jan 11). It was a bit wet, but in pretty good shape. Multiple possible lines on Deeping Wall. The first pitch of Icy BC was wet, soft and chandeliered, but still plenty safe to climb. Friends climbed the second pitch and reported it to be fun, and the third pitch to be way too open to try to lead the sides. The other routes up on the third tier were reported to be mostly there, but not quite enough to jump on. No Deductible looked too spicy to lead (bolts run out well before the protectable ice begins). It made for some fun top roping.
Highway 99 South – Duffer Lake Road
Jeremy also heard that on Saturday, The Tube had been in good shape and apparently felt a bit stiffer than the usual 3+\4-.
Meanwhile in Quebec… Lac Sylvere
I (Adrian, this site’s author) have been spending the winter in Montreal. On Sunday (Jan 11), Sam and I headed up to Lac Sylvere, about 2 hours North of Montreal. We climbed on Estonie Left (WI4), which was wet on the left side of the upper tier and most of the lower tiers. The far, right side of the lower tier and most of the upper tier were dry and brittle. The centre lines on the top tier had the best ice, not flowing, but still plastic. A good, solid WI4 lead, plus lots of TR’s in the 4+/5- range.
Another BC local has been ripping it up at Lac Sylvere – check out Matt Maddaloni’s Facebook page for his multiple first ascents there.