Posted by: westcoastice | January 3, 2015

January 3, 2015 Ice Climbing Report – revised (Thanks Peter, Drew, Sara, Adam and Eric)

NEW ROUTE

Area to be confirmed by Drew once he’s grabbed a few more FA’s?

Coast Mountain Spurt 100m WI3 FA Drew Brayshaw & Fern Web Jan 2, 2015

About 250m of creek-bed rambling and WI2 steps lead to a fine 100m, 70 to 80 degree column pouring over a steep wall. We (Drew and Fern) finished on the far right in a dihedral with some frozen turf to spice things up. Two raps to the base of the column (40m, 60m) off trees and a third Abalakov 50m rap down the steepest step of the approach ice got us to a ledge walk-off. Then a late and snowy descent through boulder fields back to valley bottom and the truck. A five star classic with many more unclimbed lines in the same area.

Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon

We (Peter & co.) climbed Old Dogs, New Picks today (Jan 3) and we drove the entire canyon.
The Gift and The Theft are both coming along bigger then I have ever seen.
Nite n’ Gale‘s main curtain was not visible, but the approach pitch was in. L
eft and right of Nite were cool looking pillars.
Old Dogs, New Picks (climbed) was in WI4+ and wet condition.
Steristrip was in.
Nothing showing in the Silk Tassel area.
Salmon Stakes looked in.
Capricorn looks in.
Pics below.

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon & Oregon Jack

Sara and Erik climbed Oregon Jack today (Jan 3). There was one other party of 2 on the route in the morning. The road was clear and the trail easy to find. The barbed wire fence is busted with deadfall along the flagged trail. The route was dreadlocked and mushroomed with brittle sections and had been recently dusted with snow. See photos below. The new chain anchor at the belay cave is a good addition to the route. The ice seemed thin today so the chains were a little out of reach. They should be in a good spot for fatter conditions.

Peter and Andrenea climbed at Marble Canyon on Friday (Jan 2). Got there from the city by 10:30am, 2 other parties top roping on the lower tier. We climbed Deeping Wall left and into the second pitch of Icy BC. We backed off the third pitch, but climbed grade 4 pitch in left corner of upper tier (Air Care). Then top roped The Showdown, but with not enough ice to climb to anchor. Pics below.

Icy BC first and second pitches are in and climbable, but the third is in challenging shape; a strong leader would push on.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road (& Pemberton)

On Dec 31, Erik and company climbed at the Rambles, climbing both Rambles Center, including the Upper Tier and Rambles Right. Pictures provided below.

Some pictures of Suicide Bluffs from Jan 3 are also provided. Conditions: All pillars were very marginal and required dry tooling sections, going in WI5+ or WI6 conditions.

Kelowna – Deeper Creek

NEW ROUTES

Adam reports he’s got more new dry-tooling routes in Kelowna at Deeper Creek. Along with the awesome ice of , the wall now has 9 routes ranging from M6 to M11 and 15-35 meters long. You don’t need to drive all the way East to Hafner!

 


Responses

  1. […] quick update after my lengthy update […]

  2. Some insightful reading for Drew beginning at page 26 of the following link:

    http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/scmagazine_issue_1.pdf


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