Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
Lee, Jeremy and Connor climbed at Marble on Sunday, finding much the same conditions as Francis described previously. On Icy BC, the 2nd pitch is hollow and open; not readily climbable. Deeping Wall was dripping wet, but still fun. Lots of pitches of top roping. Minus 5ºC in the morning. 2ºC Sunday afternoon at the truck. Very warm.
Highway 99 South – Lillooet and Duffey Lake Road
Peter Watson and Fran Roy tackled the Duffey on the weekend. Their report and pics:
Rambles Right was fun; we climbed The Column and the pitch above. We replaced anchor on top of The Column; the upper anchor was doing better. We also climbed Eagles Ears on the Upper Tier (a Jia Condon mixed line that sometimes ices in, but otherwise goes at ~M7 or something like that). The main dihedral up Rambles Right is dry of ice and the second bolt hanger was missing, forcing a single bolt rap with a thread backup.
We went on to climb Loose Lady, which was in. I (Peter) didn’t make it to the top. Looking at the photo, I should have traversed right before the big overhanging mushroom below the top pillar. The approach gulley ice was falling apart and the approach WI3 pitch was part waterfall.
We climbed Cherry Ice on Saturday evening, finding wet conditions.
Other conditions on the Duffey (from Peter):
Synchronicity looked good and ice can be seen left of Synchronicity (see pics), as well as to right, directly above the bridge where you start the approach.
Carl’s Berg was lean looking, with wet and discontinuous chandeliers.
The Tube looked to be in, but was reported thin by someone we crossed paths with on the Duffey this weekend.