Posted by: westcoastice | December 2, 2014

December 2, 2014 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Adam, Cole, Sam, Matt and Eric)

Highway 1 – Revelstoke/ Three Valley Gap

Adam sent in some pictures of the climbs around Three Valley Gap. Looks like they are a go!

 

Highway 1 – Sicamous/Malakwa (see Malakwa Guide)

Rest Stop – Nicole and I (Cole) went to the “rest stop” near Malakwa on Sunday (Nov 30th). The ice was thick enough to take screws up to the final section of vertical ice at the end of the first pitch. There wasn’t enough ice to make it to the bolts, so I (Cole) carried on up and left to a large fir tree (a 70m stretcher). We rapped down to the highway using trees. A word of caution, the curtain was releasing large pieces of ice that came down over the route.

Highway 97 – Vernon & Enderby Gap Provincial Park

I (Adrian – your trusty westcoastice.com webmaster/blogger/whateverthisis) am going to make a point of not posting a lot this year about the Cirque of the Unremarkables. Suffice to say it is in now. Being basically on the road, there are risks of future access issues. I don’t want to compromise continued access.

See the original post from last year for photos and descriptions.

Here’s a picture hinting that Mythologic may be forming up to distract you…

Highway 1- Hope

Here’s a picture of A Better Mousetrap from the weekend, courtesy of Sam. The temps in Hope are holding around freezing for the next couple of days, warming slightly by the weekend. Get it while it goes.

Highway 99 South – Pemberton

Eric Buitenhuis and myself (Eric Thiessen) went up to climb The Plum on Monday (Dec 1). From Whistler North to Birken smatterings of ice were visible on many cliffs and bluffs, including a decent amount of ice on the Soo Bluffs. Climbing on The Plum varied from plastic warm ice, to brittle cauliflower hooking and plenty of fun bulges. Protection was good, but you had to look for it. We didn’t have time to check out the final tier, but another party reported it was ‘in’ – however pretty thin and likely in challenging shape. It was around -10C all day in the shade in the gully. With more cold weather on the way, these tiers should fatten up nicely. From the parking area it looked like Politically Correct Valentine had lots of ice on it, probably similar to what we encountered. Across the valley White Blotter looked pretty fat, although I don’t think the bottom pillar was quite touching down.

Highway 99 South – Squamish

I (Matt Maddaloni) climbed The Dream Monday (Dec 1) with Nathan Kukathas. On the head wall right of A Scottish Tale. Such a rad route. Steep climbing up real ice… and with bolted stations! Last pitch is the crux, maybe WI5R. The climb went in 4 pitches. 3 x 50meter and one 20 meter pitch. First and last pitch had thin chimney cruxes. Pics below.

Approach: Follow the Gondola trail to marker 92 and turn left onto the old overgrown logging road paralleling the bottom of the cliff. Follow it until it meets the creek again and just a bit farther until the orange flagging ends and you see one long yellow flagging tape marker. Head straight up from here. So far the going is easy as most of the logging road has recently been cleared. Going up from here is open old growth with no markers until you hit impenetrable new growth. 30 minutes of hell brings you eventually to a trail with yellow flagging, all the way to the base. Used lots of stubbies and spectres. Have fun.


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