Posted by: westcoastice | December 1, 2014

December 1, 2014 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Drew, Matt and Joe)

Highway 5 – Coquihalla

NEW ROUTE

Arctic Ocean 120m WI3; Shaun Neufeld, Drew Brayshaw Nov. 30/14

The face about 100 m right of the Northwest Passage (Jarvis Bluffs area) often has ice, but it only rarely forms to the ground. Shaun made one previous attempt on the line and after climbing 30 m of mostly-rock mixed, retreated off a knifeblade anchor.

No mixed climbing needed today, it’s touching down! A short 5-minute approach from the road. We climbed the thickest line for 3 pitches of fun climbing. The ice was quite variable, lots of mushrooms and blobs, and many thin sections. The first two pitches had short sections (5 m or so) of near-vertical terrain; the third was ramps and corners. We took a rack of 10cm and 13 cm screws and a few 16cm — all were used. There was some significant ice fall during the day from wild spray formations at the top of the route, which led us to reach and rappel from the lowest tree at the top of the climb. Around 1 PM the sun shines on the wall and the rate of ice fall increases.

Descent: 3 raps down; 30m, 55m, 35 m. The first was off a tree, the last two were off 19cm abalakovs. See below photo for line.

Elsewhere nearby, I (Drew) know Sam got on A Better Mousetrap to the right of Flood Falls.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Rambles Center is back in, with a few 10cm ice screws in your kit. Climbed it on Sunday (Nov. 30). Temperatures were -21C in the morning, -15C in the afternoon. Pictures below.

 

Highway 99 South – Whistler/Brandywine Falls

NEW ROUTE

Pick Your Poison WI5/6 Matt Maddaloni & Nathan Kukathus Feb 2014

There were a couple lines ‘in’ East of the road at about 1km in from Highway 99, in the basalt gorge below Brandywine Falls, with lots of people on them when they formed (e.g. winter 05-06). Access by crossing the bungee bridge and rapping in. Pretty much all TR’ing, as there is little potential for pro in the chandeliered upper sections.

Immediately across the bungee bridge and back west and down stream about 100 feet we rapped in and climbed (on lead) the grade 5 waterfall. Tons of fun, pro just OK and possibly stopping a ground fall… maybe. Two sections of ice pillars with a ledge / smear in the middle. Climbed it last Feb 2014 with Nathan Kukathus. If we had a chance to name it, I would go with Pick Your Poison WI5/6.

Highway 99 South – Cal Cheak

I (Joe) went to Cal-Cheak/Moaning Tree this past Saturday (Nov 29) and it’s slushy ice with water pouring down all over the place. Temperature was -10C and we set up a rope and miraculously managed to smeared up the WI3/4 (left side) on top rope clean. Pictures below.


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