Highway 40 – Lillooet
Thoughts on Honeyman Falls… yesterday, Honeyman was reported climbable on the right side. However, please remember that with a warming trend, relatively low elevation and terrain trap, there is a collapse risk that needs to be considered. The Falls collapses really fast in warm conditions and should be avoided once it starts to warm up. Consider conditions and make wise decisions – don’t be lulled into a false sense of safety by the easy approach and proximity to town.
Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
Lyle and Gary climbed Oregon Jack on Saturday (Feb 22). The climb is in fat conditions, with a new, better positioned rap station at the top. There’s also a rap station at the half height cave, so the climb can be rapped with a single rope efficiently. Lyle and Gary then headed to Marble Canyon, finding fat conditions on the Deeping Wall and Icy BC. Lots of fat ice lines available. They had a round on The Showdown, which was lean on ice, requiring more dry tooling than when originally climbed. Pictures below.
Eric confirmed that Icy BC is in great shape as was posted yesterday, but just to add some detail. The third pitch of Icy BC felt WI5 with a bit of delaminated ice and running water on the exit. Pictures of Icy BC and the main wall at Marble are below.
All the other routes are in great shape apart from Pink Cadillac (I think that’s the name of the dry tooling route on the left in the corner?). It was missing the ice veneer to make the crux reasonable.
Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
We (Eric and co.) also climbed Synchronicity the next day (Feb 23). The route is in great shape with the last pitches being fat. We could not find a tree to cross the river so we used an ice bridge (directly opposite the approach gully). The ice bridge will probably collapse in the next warm spell. See pictures below of the first pitch, which was the thinest, but still good. As well as a view from the road, the middle notch and the upper amazing head wall pitches. The raps are all in great shape, the only part of the day of concern was the gully approach, which was covered in a thin layer of ice/snow and made for slick insecure travel, especially heading back down.
Synchrotron is not in yet.
Anybody know the history behind the little collapsed cabin on the approach?
Highway 99 South – Whistler
There were folks top-roping at Cal Cheak on Feb 21. Quite a bit of snow cover, but climbable ice underneath.