Posted by: westcoastice | February 10, 2014

February 10, 2014 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Èvelyne, Drew, Peter and Sam)

Highway 40 – Lillooet

We (Èvelyne, Milan, Jason & Joel) were in Lillooet area, on this very cold long weekend. We climbed some, observed some through Lillooet and the Duffey. Here’s our report.
Honeyman Falls: (see pictures) There are obvious, climbable lines center & right, well formed and protectable. There are also some fun WI4+ mushrooms/cauliflowers we climbed on TR. There are no more holes in the curtain, but can see the water flowing through/behind the ice.
Cherry Ice: Looks in, bottom of the route is thin.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Synchronicity: In good shape, as seen from the road. Perhaps some thin portions.
Synchrotron: Doesn’t look in.
The Tube: In.
Swiller Pillar: Looks in from a distance.
Sweet Cinnamon: NOT in. The 2 pitches do not connect yet.
Carl’s Berg: Good shape as viewed from the bridge, one direct line.
Rambles Right: All lines are in good shape (see pictures).
    – The Column: Climbable, somewhat aerated ice.
    – Not the Ben: Unknown.
    – The Petersen-Smaridge Ddihedral: Very good shape.

Highway 99 South – Squamish

Drew and Fern climbed Gertrude Falls yesterday. A little chandeliered; big mushrooms made for tricky pro and an interesting rappel. (pictures below)

Highway 1 – Revelstoke/Greeley

C People Play is touching down with a small pillar on the right with thin ice to gain the true base. Once on it, it looked like straight forward WI4 to the top. Approach was easy parking right below the climb just past last house. Follow deer trails (and maybe our tracks) to the base in 20mins.
Turkey Shoot (Chute?) got climbed yesterday as well.

Highway 1 – Hope

NEW ROUTE (extension of existing Mousetrap route, pictures below)
Mousetrap (A Bigger Mousetrap?) 11 pitches WI2-3+
Adam, Wes and Sam climbed Mousetrap out of Hope yesterday. Conditions had come in since we last attempted it on Friday. The fourth pitch was no longer running water, so we were able to climb 11 pitches on double 60m ropes through amazing granite slot canyon, WI2-3+. With almost no snow at higher elevations, that ice continued all the way to the ridge. We turned around after 11 pitches and 8 1/2 hours of climbing. If anyone is up for an epic we could clearly see at least 6 pitches (60m pitches) more above…. if not 10, with some looking like at least WI4-5. We rappelled down in the dark for 3 1/2 hours and were met by Hope SAR. Apparently 3 headlamps up on the mountain look like a group of people in trouble and someone called it in. Thanks to the volunteers who came out and the speed with which you did so. Amazing response time!


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