Posted by: westcoastice | February 3, 2014

February 3, 2014 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Lyle, Werner and Allen)

The ice is growing back! The weather forecast for the next 2 weeks is very, very cold. Highs in the negative teens (Celsius) for the next week around Lillooet and remaining with sub-zero highs for the week following. Reports from last weekend show that the ice is already growing. Details below:

Highway 40 – Lillooet

Honeyman FallsHoneyman is filling out nicely (pic below) compared to how it looked in early January. The right side is filled in from top to bottom and the left is filling out at the top, albeit with a hole in the middle. Might be good to go next weekend.

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

A BCMC club trip was ice climbing again around Lilloett February 1-2, 2014 (Pavel, Brittany, Geoff, Werner, Bala). The BCMC crew spent Sunday (Feb 2) at Marble Canyon. It was very busy, with 23 climbers total (from the VOC group and others). Pictures below.
Deeping Wall – fat and picked out. Easier on the left, with enough room for 3-4 separate lines.
No Deductible – Filling out nicely. Less drippy and chandeliered than previous weekends.
Icy BC – Lots of ice on pitch 1. The 2nd pitch is fully frozen now. The 3rd pitch is frozen on the right side (leadable), running water on the left.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

The BCMC group was at the Rambles on Saturday (Feb 1). There were 3 cars in the parking lot. The group chose to climb Rambles Center. The 1st pitch was moderate ice – so, so, a bit melted during the previous week. But still protectable. The 2nd pitch had lots of ice. The Top Step (aka 3rd pitch) had good ice, less drippy than in early January. Lenin, Left Finish and Right Finish all in good shape (pics below). No comments were provided for Robin Hood or Robber Baron.

Highway 97 – Vernon

NEW ROUTES (all by Lyle Knight and company)
Cirque of the Unremarkables The Cirque climbs thinned out a lot in January, but are likely on the repair with the return to cold temps. Climbs described as Lettered in the picture in the gallery below.
Approach: From Vernon, drive about 5km North on Highway 97A to the Otter Lake X-Road exit. The Cirque is obvious on the East side of the road behind the traffic circle/ roundabout.
A – Mono eh Mono WI3+/ M3+ (TR) 2 pitches
B – Aemnia WI3+
C – #5 WI3
D – #4 WI3
E – #5 WI3
F – Turn-Style WI4
G – Blob’s Your Uncle WI4
H – #2 WI3 to WI4 (TR)
I – Circle Jerk WI2 (TR)
J – Unnamed WI2+

Highway 97 – Enderby Cliffs Provincial Park

Mythologic WI6 140m 4 pitches – Starting to form (pic below). Might be in condition with the coming two weeks of cold weather.
Here’s Lyle’s original description/first ascent from 2011.

Highway 1 – Sicamous

Malakwa Ice Routes – here’s a Guide for the Malakwa Ice Routes from Allen James Rollin. Note that Pigeon Pillar is not in the Guide.
Rest Stop WI4/4+ 2 pitches. About 10km east of Sicamous just above Highway #1. See pics from this last weekend below. The climb is in good shape.
Pigeon Pillar WI5 (just right of Rest Stop pitch 2). Not formed.

Highway 1 – Revelstoke/Three Valley Gap

Gap Falls – Approach from directly above the Three Valley Gap Ghost Town. The climb is in good shape. Lyle’s pics from the Jan 25/26 weekend are in the Gallery below.

Revelstoke Ice Climbs – Here’s a Guide from Allen James Rollin for Revelstoke Ice Climbs.
Greeley Ice Climbs – Here’s another Guide from Allen James Rollin, for Greeley Ice Climbs, just East of Revelstoke.


Responses

  1. Thank you very much for that comprehensive report….i take you are the CAPTAIN of the EI ice climbing team then ??? =)

    • I do what I can! 🙂
      But of course, I can only report what info people send me (plus what I see). If you get out there, let me know what you find.

  2. […] (pilfered from Peter’s FB post) Peter and company climbed Rest Stop yesterday (Feb 6), and approached C People Play, but it was not touching down yet. Gap Falls (Three Valley Gap) is in. See the guide to the Malakwa Area at the top of the West Coast Ice homepage or at the bottom of the Feb 3 post. […]


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