Posted by: westcoastice | December 31, 2013

December 31, 2013 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Paul and Jean-Marc)

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Joe Wong and I (Paul Olynek), with 4 others, climbed at Marble Canyon this weekend.
Deeping Wall is FAT and FUN.
On Icy BC, there was a hole in the lower mid-section, but it was lead-able on the lower left. Then you need to move to the upper right to keep out of the water “raining lightly” off the upper left… one of our climbers got soaked. Definitely need long ropes (70m) for Marble Canyon if you’re going to TR.

NEW NOTE: Garry Brace reports that the third pitch of Icy BC collapsed today (Dec 31).
I’ve also added some pictures from Lyle Knight of them climbing Marble yesterday.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Ryan Larkin and I (Jean-Marc Savoie) climbed Loose Lady today (Dec 31) on Duffey Lake Road. It was a spectacular day despite not attacking the WI5 pillar and mushrooms at the top. Despite being warm, the lower pitches were very enjoyable. See our pictures below.

Joe and I (Paul), plus 2 others, climbed the Rambles Center on Sunday (Dec 29). The Rambles Center lower pitch did not look like it could take two lines, but I suspect with constant sub-zero weather that may change. Joe and I were on Rambles Left three weekends ago and I suspect there is still only one line there (as it was for Francis two weekends ago). Regardless, Rambles Left was two “easy” pitches, so worth a look for those wanting something low stress. On the Rambles Center Upper Tier, we did three lines. All interesting and lead-able (bring short screws!). Note: there is essentially no snow up there holding the loose rocks in place, particularly in the gully between the lower and upper section. We accidentally dislodged a couple of rocks and a small dead tree on the way down… very scary and extremely lucky no one was climbing the lower pitch at that time. I’d be inclined to dissuade people from climbing to the Upper Tier if there will be climbers on the first tier… or emphasize they need to be SUPER CAREFUL they don’t dislodge anything.

Washington – Mount Baker

Pan Dome Falls is looking in and leadable, in solid WI3 conditions. On Sunday, I was snowboarding up on Baker and spotted an ice climber top-roping the climb. I included a photo of the climb in the gallery below.


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