Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon
We (Peter and Todd) got up Night N Gale today (Saturday). Climb was in fun shape. The first pitch of the upper tier might be better to take the right hand finish, as the left side was pretty junk ice for a good 15 meters.
For rappelling this route we replaced webbing at the very top with new Black webbing; next was a in situ V-thread, then downclimb to the top of approach pitch. On the approach pitch rap, we also replaced the webbing with more new Black webbing. Below the next downclimb, we also rigged a new station on skiers left to rap 60m all the way to the gulley below, thus avoiding the steep alder bushwhack that you need to use to climb up to the route.
An avalanche had run in the Night N Gale basin; we were a little surprised as the amount of snow that had fallen out that way looked to be only 1 cm or so. But with the slick surface below the upper tier, it had built a big enough slide to bury someone. Plan carefully.
Nothing else looking to inspiring on the Bridge River in comparison to what we saw last year. Shriek of Sheep is the only thing with a lot of ice, but the whole upper fangs look like they have at least 30m to go.
Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
Coming into better condition every day. Some Yanks up for the weekend climbed Body Shop today, so that goes.
Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
Jeremy Thom and Bob Taylor climbed Synchronicity today (Saturday). It’s in reasonable shape. Pretty fat except the first pitch. Wish I’d brought my file up. The very top pitch in the trees is just a thin, wet, melting curtain. Not climbable. 0°C at the truck at 8:00am, -2°C at the truck at 4:30pm.
Synchrotron ain’t nearly in. Neither is Mother. Neither are any of the other pillars that head up left from Synchro. Worst of all, no log. We tried to boulder hop after the descent. No go. Only way in and out is across the slide. It sucked. So did nearly every other meter of the approach. Just enough snow to hide all the loose rocks and sticks. Heinous.
Next time I do it, I’m bringing an aluminium ladder which I’m going to lock to a tree. There are plenty of boulders that you could bridge with a ladder.
The BCMC group (Francis and crew) climbed Rambles Left lower tier (on the left side, the right line hasn’t formed yet). The very bottom is thin, but easy low angle. The top section was WI3-, a bit wet but fun.
The other half of the BCMC group played on Rambles Center – it had the best ice of the 3 Rambles. Nice and fat. I (Francis) went and peeked at Rambles Right and from the bottom it looks like the bottom half of the dihedral was fat and blue — top looked dry but hard to say from far away.
Also looks like Closet Secrets and Shreddie are forming but didn’t look in yet.