Posted by: westcoastice | December 11, 2013

December 12 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Wes, Evan, Eric and Gripped)

Highway 1 – Hope

Picadilly Circus: On Tuesday, Dec 10, I (Wes) climbed the 5 pitches to Drew’s highpoint (see Dec 9 report) at log in tight canyon. The 3rd pitch of mushrooms was amazingly dry and  solid. Pitch 4 and 5 had open water you had to climb around. Kicked a few holes. I then went up a 200m more on WI2 ice to a small WI3 step.

Exited climber’s right into forest and scrambled down as per old guidebook. It was 2.5 hrs. descent to car. Sketchy.

Overall, climb was good if you like long grade 2. Do not recommend scramble down.

Highway 99 South – Whistler

Evan posted a more complete writeup of their day at Suicide on his blog.

NEW ROUTE
100% Proof M10 FA Tim Emmett and Jamie Finlayson
In case you haven’t seen the news on Gripped, Tim and Jamie put up a new multi-pitch M10 route behind Brandywine Falls. It looks a lot like his amazing Helmcken Falls climb (with Will Gadd, Raphael Slawinski, Klemen Premrl, and Tim Emmett). And it was Jamie’s first ice climb! We’ll add more details as we hear them.

Highway 99 South – Pemberton

Eric and company climbed Nintendo yesterday (Tuesday) and then top-roped a direct route clean through the roof on the right of Nintendo (see pictures below). Needs a bolt to make it leadable. Maybe M7?

We then headed to Frozen Zombie and did a few laps, it’s good to go!

Unless it all melts out Thursday (increasing temps)!!


Responses

  1. I will add a bolt to the right of Nintendo next time I’m up with the drill. Unlike the other routes this would be a route that is more than likely unclimbable without any ice.


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