Posted by: westcoastice | December 11, 2013

December 11, 2013 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Evan and Jean-Marc)

Highway 99 South – Soo Bluffs

Ryan larkin and I (Jean-Marc Savoie), Squamish locals, went and climbed Entropy on the Soo Bluffs off Highway 99 North of Whistler. A 45 min approach, via train bridge crossing. The ice is easy to see from the road on the left hand side. It was fat enough to lead. WI3. Pictures below.

Morgan Edwards and I (Evan Sharp) spent all of Sunday out at the Suicide Bluffs on Sunday Drive. It was fat, taking 16cm screws all the way up. The first pitch is quite spicy, since the ‘Scottish off width start’ hasn’t consolidated fully, making for some pretty gymnastic moves on icicles. The top pitch was very thick and still running.

On the approach I noted that the first flow downstream of the cable (WI 3-) was in; verglass increasing to decent screws. We climbed it as a warmup. Psycho Pillar was just as described in the guide: blobs the first half, a tenuous smear the second. As climbable as it ever is I guess. Take Me to the River and Punkin’ Roof were also all highly-climbable for those with more experience and nerve than I. The whole area was pretty much a playground 🙂
Pictures below.


  1. FYI, I did a more complete writeup of the day at Soo Bluffs:


%d bloggers like this: