Posted by: westcoastice | December 8, 2013

December 9, 2013 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Drew, Saar, Alistair and Leigh)

Highway 99 South – Pemberton

I (Saar) climbed the first tier of PC Valentine on Saturday.
The Plum looks in, but thin at the bottom.
Climbed Entropy today (Sunday).

Highway 99 South – Whistler

Sophie and I (Alistair) went to Mystery Roach Hotel in Whistler on Saturday (pic below).  The route was in really fun shape, completely dry ice with almost no snow around.  It took good 13cm screws.  A bolt and a piton were still exposed on the main line, but not for long.  Enjoy the arctic air while it lasts!

Highway 99 South – Squamish

We (Leigh and company) went ice climbing in the Smoke Bluffs on Sunday, the 8th. The WI3 Ice on the left hand side of Krack Rock is climbable. We TR’d it. It might be protectable with stubbies.
To the right of Zombie Roof, Frozen Zombie, Happy Hooker and Alice on Ice all look climbable. We received beta from some climbers below Frozen Zombie that they had Top Roped it on Saturday and were back to do it again. On the trail South of Pixies Corner there is a short climbable smear. Further South there is a longer smear that looks interesting. Pictures below.

Highway 1 – Hope

Drew and Steve climbed Picadilly Circus Sunday (pics below). The climb is off Highway 1, 1 km west of Herrling Island overpass.
90 m WI2 to 50 m fantastic cauliflower WI3 to 80m WI2 rambling steps in a tight canyon. 30 minute approach from the highway.

Did it in 5 pitches with some simul-climbing. 4 raps down, first from a frozen log, rest from v-threads.

This description is post landslide and replaces the pre-landslide description in WCI.


  1. […] Circus: On Tuesday, Dec 10, Wes and partner climbed the 5 pitches to Drew’s highpoint (see Dec 9 report) at log in tight canyon, then went up a 200m more on WI2 ice to a small WI3 […]


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