Posted by: westcoastice | December 8, 2013

December 8, 2013 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Drew, Even and Peter)

Highway 1 – North of Hope

The roadcut ice at Lake of the Woods (Semi Frozen Mud Pie, etc) were in, but the top outs would be tough. Might be best to TR.
Superheroes Cirque was thin.
First pitch of Sailor Bar Gully was climbable.
Marc-Andre’s mixed variation to Ultrawoman might be climbable.
Nothing else was protectable on Friday.

Hells Gate – everything seemed to be in, continuous, and fat.

Did not go north of Boston Bar so no idea about Jackass, etc.

Highway 1 – Chilliwack to Hope

Lots and lots of thin/hard to protect ice.
Bridal Falls not in yet.
Never a Bride, etc are thin semi-continuous veneers.
Easy Intro has running water on the crux pitch high up. The lower slab ice is in.
Janice Ales is good to go, similar to FA conditions, but might be thin on last pitch.
The Sheet is in.
Mousetrap is continuous ice, but slushy and blobby. Expect open holes; bring Goretex.
Jah Loveth the Leftists’s first pitch is in. Second pitch still has a hole as of Friday
Cruel Pools narrow second pitch/first real pitch had a large water-spewing hole part way up on Friday.

Highway 7 – Agassiz to Hope

Tradewinds
might be in, continuous thin ice.
Tailwind was not in.
Frost Heave was not in.
Seabird Falls was not in.
Hells Lake Falls was not in.

Highway 5 – Coquihalla

Drool in The Lotus is in as are some of the unclimbed lines nearby
The Honeymoon looked good to go. Not much snow above, so low avvy hazard.
Jarvis Bluffs had lots of ice, but the pipeline crew had the road blocked for work. You might need to walk from the bridge to get to the climbs.
Northwest Passage, Black and White and Toll Free area was fat and blue.
Didn’t go as far as Box Canyon, but ice got thicker with elevation, so it probably has climbable lines.

Highway 99 – Pemberton

I (Peter) got out early this Saturday morning and ran a couple of TR laps on Nintendo. It was in tough shape and was pretty detached .

NEW ROUTES
I also worked my other new routes (up to 4 mixed lines – more details to follow). The new mixed climbs that I have been working on are just about ready to go. A couple more bolts are needed to lead these. I have been using the cracks when it is just wet or dry and the ice isn’t thick enough for screws, but when the ice comes in all the crack placements ice up.

New Routes left to right:
Nintendo, Left Finish Variation WI5/M5 1 bolt. Left finish variation.
Nintendo proper.
Poop M5+ The left facing corner. Lead on all gear when no ice. Needs a couple bolts for when it ices up.
Puke M6 8 bolts Left bolt line. One crux side pull. Top out of this route is in need of a bolt or two for when the ice is in.
Spew M5+ 6 bolts Right bolt line.  Same issue for the top out.

The three mixed routes share the same finish. Bolted stations with rings or chains are at the top of both lines and some yellow and black dot flagging lead you to the top of the cliff , heading left at the bottom.

Highway 99 – Whistler

Prospector’s Secret – I (Evan) have been hitting that 40m flow described in the December 7 post every day since Wednesday and it continues to build and grow. I’d say it’s properly ‘in’ now and could be led by a bold fellow with stubbies; even getting fat in places. The -20C forecast for Saurday night should help too. Updated approach – http://evansharp.ca/blog/2013/first-sticks-of-201314-ice-climbing-in-whistler/

Responses

  1. A friend of mine (who doesn’t climb) just posted a incredible photo of Norvan falls in excellent condition on facebook.

    • Have a link to it? Or a copy? 🙂

  2. Hi,

    Climbed first tier of PC Valentine on Sat. Plum looks in but thin at the bottom. Climbed Entropy today (Sunday).

    Cheers, Saar[image: Inline image 2][image: Inline image 3][image: Inline image 1]

    On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 7:14 AM, West Coast Ice


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