Posted by: westcoastice | February 25, 2013

February 25, 2013 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Lyle and Joe)

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

On Friday, Feb 22, Lyle and GW climbed at Oregon Jack and at Marble Canyon. Oregon Jack is still in good shape. A bit cauliflowered in the last 12 meters. Topping out on Oregon Jack – we had the drill in the pack to put in a new anchor, unfortunately it only lasted for half of one hole… We left Oregon Jack at around 1pm, arrived at Marble at about 2pm and had the whole place to ourselves! Climbed Icy BC (3 pitches) and back to the car by 5:50pm! See the pics in the Gallery below.

We (Joe with Thomas, Dean and Alex) climbed at Marble Canyon on Saturday, Feb 24. It was ~5C with high winds. The ice has regrown compared to last weekend. We climbed Icy BC. Pitch 1 had less rushing water with the colder temps. Good lead with good screws. Pitch 2 had regrown – the previous weekend, it was not touching down entirely. This weekend, it’s touching down with a hole and rushing water in the middle. We led the left side. Good screws. At the top short section, it’s delicate with water behind the ice and I had to mix a few moves (L tool and L crampon on rock and R tool and R crampon on ice). On Pitch 3, I went on the far right which looked the most solid and dry. The ice had many hollow spots and required a lot of digging – as a result it felt steeper than it looked. Leading was heady. Good screw placements were far apart. The column left side was wet and also actually not connecting at the top (the gap couldn’t be seen from below). We rapped and hiked down.
Then we led the Deeping Wall Pillar. Stick clipped the first bolt. It’s solid. 3 others top roped it too and it’s still intact. The rest of Deeping Wall was as good as always.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

On Sunday, Feb 24, we (Joe with Thomas, Dean and Alex) climbed The Rambles. It was ~7C with no wind. Led Rambles Left. Pitches 1 & 2 were good with good screws. After some scrambling, we reached the top tier. It got warmer and warmer. The top tier columns all looked really wet and hollow. The ice has decreased compared to past weeks. Led the furthest left finish. Close to the very top, it’s thin, but solid ice sticking on the rock, with a few drytool moves to get to the tree anchor.
Dean and Alex went to Rambles Center and they said the top tier was great. They climbed on both sides.

During the drive, we saw that Honeyman Falls is gone.


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