Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
Feb 17 Sun: We (Joe, Iman, Luigi and Josh) woke up at 6am to sunshine with 0+C temperatures. Went to Marble Canyon for the day.
Icy BC pitch 1 has the usual hole down low, with some running water. Wet, but a good lead with good screws. The top part of pitch 1 is now smaller and a bit steeper compared to 3 weekends ago. Pitch 2 ice was only touching the ground partly with running water. We didn’t try it.
Led Deeping Wall with good ice and screws. See pics in the Gallery below.
Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road – Cayoosh Creek Area
Feb 16 Saturday: We (Joe and friends) woke up 6am in Lillooet to pouring rain with 0+C warm temperatures. Climbed at the Rambles.
Rambles Center: First pitch was a bit wet, but took good screws. Experienced a mix of rain/snow during the climb. Top Tier (both sides) was intact. Led Left Finish with solid ice and screws. See pics.
Rambles Left: My friends climbed to the very top and said the ice was good and the climbing very enjoyable.
Paul and Jesse climbed Red Wall Wanderers a couple weekends back (see pic in the Galley below). You can scope it from the road. It’s in a shady spot, so it “usually” sticks around.
Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road – Joffre Area
Graham and I (Jesse Mason) took a quick wander in North Joffre on the weekend. We skied up to Beekers Chimney, then back to Gee Whiz as that appeared to be the best line, and neither of us had climbed it before. The ice on Gee Whiz was okay more or less. As usual the crack at 30m was there and making all sorts of uncomfortable noises… it often falls off in one big sheet, kinda spooky. See pics below.
I would guess that Shniedelwurz and maybe Stem Cell would be in reasonable condition. Everything else looked so so at best. I have climbed here in late April so… possibly it will improve..??
Take note of the terrain, there are acres and acres of avalanche terrain above that you may or may not be able to see. You definitely need very stable avalanche conditions.
Here’s hoping for a little more Winter.