Thanks to Francis, Drew, Henrik, Mark, Ian and Chris for the reports and pics. Pics are at the bottom of the post.
Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon
A large shield of ice collapsed into the hole on Honeyman Falls and more is ready to come down.
Richard Butler-Smythe and I (Henrik Hinkkala) went up Night N’ Gale Sunday (Feb 3) and conditions on the route were great. All pitches were well formed and hopefully should stick around. Other routes in the Bridge River Canyon looked decent from the road (e.g. Shriek of Sheep, Old Dogs, New Picks, Silk Degrees, etc). However, it also has been warm there so these routes might not be as positive up close. See picture of the upper tier pitches (top 2 pitches) of Nite N’ Gale in the Gallery below.
Francis and team also went up Night N’ Gale Sunday (Feb 3), but only the first of the 2 final pitches. Ran out of time with Henrik and Richard ahead of us. We had to wait until they finished climbing and rapping down to avoid ice fall. The 1st pitch on the top cutain was solid WI 4 with some wet spots and some funky ice. Second pitch looked much easier than the 1st. Much of the gully had already slid, so avalanche danger was reasonably low. Temperatures in the Bridge were very warm, around 0C at 5pm with sticky snow.
Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon
Richard Butler-Smythe and I (Henrik Hinkkala) climbed Icy BC on Saturday (Feb 2) The second and third tier had a sizable spray of water coming out of holes near the top, however both were climbable via the right hand sides. On the third tier, a large portion about 10feet before the mid-height ledge has the possibility of falling off since it was de-laminated from the rock. Picture in the Gallery below.
Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
Bad news for low-elevation climbs. Mumu Man, Storm Brewing and Small Creep all pretty much fell down. Very little ice left on any of them. A large shield of ice also collapsed into the hole on Honeyman Falls and more is ready to come down. Also, there were a bunch of avalanches and rockfalls on some of the scree fans around Lillooet. Driving through the Big Slide on Hwy 12 on the way home felt like driving through a shooting range – I (Drew) escaped with only one dent in the truck, more by luck than anything else.
Loose Lady was a shower bath Sunday (Feb 3) from about 11 AM on, with the crux pillar having hot and cold running cauliflowers. Bring goretex bibs and a snorkel if you are a suitor of the Lady. Pic in the Gallery below shows general conditions.
Society Girls is very thin, a couple 10cm screws would be nice if you want any pro.
Highway 99 South – Pemberton
Mihal and Mark climbed The Plum Sunday (Feb 3). Some parts are in nice conditions, such as the grade 4 pitch and the bulk of the final pitch. And some parts have been hollowed out a fair bit and are distressingly thin… like the top of the first tier (easy to bypass) and the top of the final pitch.
Chris Stolz and I (Ian Bennett) tried to climb Politically Correct Valentine today (Feb 3). We made it up the first step and got spooked off. The ice felt like it could have come down any time; there are large horizontal cracks all over it, each several centimetres wide. At the top there are entire pillars that aren’t connected to the ice above and low angle thin hollow stuff full of cracks. There are also many sections of temperature-affected ice with hollow cavities underneath. Looks better than it is. Probably best to give this one a miss.
Also White Blotter fell down.