Posted by: westcoastice | January 30, 2013

January 30, 2013 (Thanks Peter and Ian)

Horde Warnings for the coming weekend:

There will be LOTS of climbers at Marble Canyon and possibly The Rambles this weekend. We have two separate ‘horde warnings’, as follows:
1) Lisa notes – Thought I’d give everyone a heads up for this weekend. We will have a group of 10-12+ people from Kamloops at Marble Canyon on Sunday February 3rd. Please expect crowds and play nice.
2) Ian added – Just wanted to double up on the horde warning. The UBC VOC (Varsity Outdoor Club) is holding an “intro to ice” trip to Marble Canyon this coming weekend. We plan to be there Saturday and Sunday, but seeing as it looks like its going to be a very busy place on Sunday, a portion of the group may move to The Rambles as well.

Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon

Lee, Francis and Marc-Andre climbed Climbed Four Dressed Up as a Six, and Capricorn on Tuesday, Jan 30. Both routes are in good shape and people should get after them! The Bridge River Canyon is colder than Lillooet and the ice should be okay through this warm spell. Pics and more details to come later.

Monday had us (Peter Watson and company) heading up Night N’ Gale, easy creek crossing in waders or garbage bags and running shoes. Found tracks quickly and made it to the Grade 2 approach pitch in about an hour. I got a 12hr flu bug as we continued slogging up the slope between and by the time I got up to it I was wasted. I will be back as there are 3 different lines to climb on the first pitch of the upper tier and they all looked great.

Suncatcher, in Xwisten, heading into the Bridge River, is in and prominent looking, although rather white. Needs some colder air to get into shape.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Peter and company climbed The Tube in the afternoon Sunday Jan 27, with good ice and dry lines able to be found. Fixed v-thread to an alder anchor just before the top out made for a quick climb and descent.

Highway 99 South – Pemberton

We (Peter Watson et al) climbed at Drive By Shooting (see page 6 of the New Climbs Guide for reference) on Sunday morning. Lots of ice pillars up there this year; maybe some options for some new bolted lines. The in situ quickdraws are looking a little bleak so bring longer draws to clip over top of them.
Lots of ice in this area although seeming to be on the way out unless some cooler temps hit the valley again.


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