Posted by: westcoastice | January 29, 2013

January 29, 2013 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Wes, Lee, Marc-Andre, Lisa and Jeremy)

Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon

Jeremy reports – Honeyman Falls on Saturday (Jan 26) was fat and plastic with plenty of room to accommodate all 11 of us that found ourselves there. Everyone played nice and I’d like to thank Todd and his crew from Kamloops and Andy and Will from Seattle for so happily letting us string up a few more ropes.

On Monday (Jan 28), Lee, Francis and Marc climbed Silk Degrees followed by Silk Worm. Ice was in good shape, but the crux pitch on Silk Degrees was very chandeliered and was a challenging lead. Otherwise the climbing was smooth. On the descent, it was snowing a lot at the top and we had some trouble deciding which gully to rap into Salmon Stakes. We had to do a couple of raps, deal with stuck ropes, but landed in the gully and completed the descent down Salmon Stakes. A long day all around, but really good adventure. Highly recommended.

Note – the river crossing was a soaker both ways. Not fun, so bring waders or old sneakers & towels. Whatever your preferred method.

From previous reports, the ‘approach’ pitches to Capricorn people are referring to are actually Millar’s Pillar and A Four Dressed Up as a Six. These form very rarely so the approach for Capricorn avoids this basin on the left. Headed up there tomorrow will report what we find….

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Horde Warning for next weekend: Lisa notes – Thought I’d give everyone a heads up for this weekend. We will have a group of 10-12+ people from Kamloops at Marble Canyon on Sunday February 3rd. Please expect crowds and play nice.

Jeremy Thom and company found that Oregon Jack (on Sunday Jan 27) was fat. It’s in relatively easy shape at the usual mid height cruxy bit, but the top pillar is fairly serious at the moment. Pick your poison – rotten cauliflower on the left or 2” of transparent ice over running water on the right. Steep either way, but a bit friendlier on the transparent stuff. Tonnes of options for fun on the bottom ¾ if you don’t like the look of the pillar. I improved the anchor a bit, replacing the single strand attached to both bolts with a figure 8 on a bight — the infamous equilateral American Death Triangle. I replaced that with a separate strand from each bolt, equalized to a huge ass quick link at the top of the ice.  However, one of my students later pointed out that as both strands were dynamic climbing rope, their stretching and contracting as loaded and unloaded is going to create a sawing action against the rock wall that they curve around.  You learn something new every day… Thanks Scott MacKenzie. Anyways, the rock is pretty smooth and both ropes are in good shape, but if someone has 25-30’ of spare webbing or static cord…

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Carl’s Berg, from the road, looked fatter than last weekend (when I also viewed it from the road only).

Jason Cullum and I (Wed Dyck) climbed 4 pitches at Rambles Right, including The Dihedral and The Column. The Upper Dihedral was too thin for us. It has one missing bolt hanger. The second pitch above The Column, aka Not The Ben, was detaching up at the end, but climbable. All ice was in great shape.

Highway 1 – Fraser Canyon

Spences Bridge outflow had a big hole in the middle, but it might go on either side. The climb immediately to its right looked better and solid, but from the spot where I looked, I couldn’t make out the bottom.
The Crucible, from the road in fading light, looked fat. I couldn’t see any holes. But I only had a quick glimpse. Let’s say that it looks plausible enough that I’d chance the drive up to go have a closer look. But then I LOVE that climb – might be biased.
Jackass, from the road in mostly faded light, had lots of ice, but had a big hole at the bottom. There were pillars on either side, but I really couldn’t hazard a guess as to what was climbable.


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