Posted by: westcoastice | January 24, 2013

January 24, 2013 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Lee)

Highway 40 – Bridge River Canyon

Lee and Francis climbed Honeyman Falls on Tuesday, January 22. Great ice. There was a tremendous hole on the upper climber’s-left side with an amazing ice cone and water spewing 20 ft in the air. It was possible to climb spray covered cauliflower ice to the right of the spray cone – really enjoyable and fun climbing. Amazing to climb beside a massive spray. Lots of Abalakov anchors on the route.

Lee and Francis then drove further into the Bridge River Canyon and climbed Old Dogs, New Picks. There were tracks to the base of the route, and we found tracks in the snow on top to the anchor tree, but otherwise no evidence of anyone climbing it (no screw holes, not picked out at all); maybe the previous parties took a different line or a few freeze-thaw cycles since the last ascent? We climbed the easiest line we could find :-). We found brittle ice (very cold in the Bridge that day) with mushrooms and chandeliers, making for a challenging lead. Sticks required quite a few swings and some cleaning. The route is probably in more challenging than usual conditions. Cool cave mid route to climb into.

Lee and Francis did a reconnaissance trip to the Terghazi Dam and have the following to report…
Overall, conditions in the Bridge looked pretty good and we are keen to get back and climb there!
Could not see Xwisten Steps or Sun Catcher; not sure of status. We probably just missed it driving by.
From Old Dogs, we could see huge big blue ice, up high and climber’s-right of Old Dogs. We assume it was Capricon (WI5) and it looked good to go from the road.
Steristrip (WI4 and/or M5) – beside Old Dogs – looked climbable.
House of Cards (WI6) was not formed; missing the bottom. Looks like it would be amazing if it came into condition.
Drake (WI2/3) – or was it Left of Silk Degrees (WI3)? Whichever it was looked good.
Silk Degrees (WI4) looked blue and fat, but missing first pitch. The Rock Start should get you to the ice.
Silk Worm (WI4) – the continuation of Silk Degrees – looked great; get on it for a long day!
Salmon Stakes (WI2+) looks good.
The Gift (WI5) was missing the lower pitches, but they looked like they were starting to form. The upper pitches look blue and good; too bad you can’t get to them.
The Theft (WI6 R 5.9) was missing the entire first pitch. The upper pitches looked to be forming.
Shriek of Sheep (WI5+) is forming, but not ready.
Night N’ Gale (WI4) looked good from the road.
Lots of other bits and bobs of ice high up that we could not match up to the guidebook and probably aren’t really formed or ready.

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Pictures of Icy BC in the Gallery are from Monday, January 21.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Pictures in the Gallery of PS Dihedral and The Column are from Sunday, January 20.

Highway 99 South – Pemberton

Pictures in the Gallery of The Plum are from Saturday, January 19.


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