Posted by: westcoastice | January 20, 2013

January 20 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Lee and Peter)

Highway 99 South –  Duffey Lake Road

Lee Purvis and Francis St-Pierre climbed at The Rambles today (Jan 20), after a big day on The Plum yesterday (see additional approach beta for The Plum below). The Rambles is in good shape.
Francis led PS Dihedral, which has great ice and is in good conditions.
Lee led Eagle Ears. One bolt hanger missing. Thin ice, but okay with the bolts.
They met two strong climbers from WA state (climbing at the WI 5/6 level?). The WA climbers had tried to do Synchronicity this morning, but bailed because it was sunbaked and rotten. Synchronicity is not recommended right now.
The Column looked fat, but very wet and chandeliered. Lee and Francis weren’t hungry enough to lead it and get soaked; your mileage may vary.
The Tube looks good and had a party on it today.
Carl’s Berg looks thin. At least one party was on it today. Rumored to be in WI5+ shape.
Shreddie is not formed. Not even close.
Anything higher up or in the sun is sunbaked and not good. A very strong sun crust makes it scary.

Highway 99 South – Pemberton

Approaching The Plum – advice on finding The Plum
(1) Before hiking, make sure you walk back up the road from the parking area and scope out the climb. Don’t even think about hiking up without seeing it first. Stand across from the two barns and get in your head which gully it’s in. Once you are in the forest, you can’t see it and you need to have your orientation clear.
(2) Be careful following trails; there are a million trails (about a thousand created by Francis and Lee on Saturday!). Use your own judgement and don’t follow other tracks leading you astray.
(3) Walk through the forest and approach to the left of the drainage for the climb. The drainage is too epic to climb with all the snow. Stay in the forest on the left side of the drainage and make the best of it. Cut into the drainage high up when forced to by the bluffs and close to the first pitch.
(4) When your instincts say to go left, ignore them. Go up or more right. Always trend right. Left is a mistake.

Highway 99 South – Whistler

Peter Watson climbed at Soo Bluffs today (Jan 20). They broke trail into Entropy and climbed a very rotten 3 pitches of climbing. Still some alright ice for anchors and screws, but very hollow.


  1. […] more sucker tracks to The Plum approach. Jeremy’s comments on The Plum approach (referring to Sunday’s Approach Notes): “However, if you’re looking for Rocky and Bullwinkle, head up to the shack just under the […]


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