Highway 40 – Lillooet
On Sunday January 13, we (Don and friends) climbed at Honeyman Falls, along with at least four other parties. Lots of climbable terrain, with a narrow gusher on the extreme left side. Otherwise, fat and good to go.
Walking by Cherry Ice, it definitely looks “in”.
Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road
Today January 14, we (Peter Watson and co.) attempted Loose Lady. Although the upper pillar looks awesome, it is shitty-awkward climbing to get up the cauliflowers to establish beside the pillar. A real badass would feel good weaving a way up the entire column that I was trying to skirt — to get to the 15 meters of business at the top.
The Tube is in.
The Strand is a thin continuous pillar
Last Call still needs to build for first pitch ice.
Deep Throat looked like last year and should be good to go.
Storm Brewing and Mumu Man are building to leadable shape.
On Saturday January 12, we (Don et al) climbed Rambles Left for the second weekend in a row. The ice is coming along nicely.
On Sunday January 13, we (Milan and Evelyn) climbed Rambles Left on the Duffey Lake Road. Conditions are very good, some lines in the upper tier were a little wet, but good protection could be found. Very nice lines!
Upper Left Direct looks good, but the ice does not yet reach the trees. Upper most section not formed yet – climbed and rapped from an abalakov anchor.
Aladdin is nearly there.
Highway 99 South – Pemberton
Note regarding the Whisper Falls report yesterday – the road is clear and a regular car is fine. No 4×4 needed. Whisper Falls is on the road from Mount Currie to D’Arcy.
Highway 99 South – Squamish
Following up on Sunday’s report on Two Minutes for Hooking (originally rated M4/5 WI 3/4 for 3 or 4 pitches). Bruce scoped it with binoculars and the upper part looks very lean and poor quality. The bottom pitches (hidden) might be okay, but all in all it looks marginal at best.
Highway 1 – Hope
My wife and I (Mike Warn) put up two new ice lines on the new blasted rock wall across Highway 1 from the Lake Of The Woods parking lot.
Monday Morning Mood Swing WI3 25M FA Mike & Elisabeth Warn January 14/13, is located just left of the blank area.
Semi Frozen Mud pie WI3 20M FA Mike & Elisabeth Warn January 14/13, is 2/3 of the way across to the right and under the lone Maple tree.
Not much else is in around Hope right now. Everything is still patchy and thin. It’s not worth the drive out here yet. If it stays cold this week, we may have some good conditions come the weekend. We also drove up to Sailor Bar tunnel and saw that an avalanche had come down that recently. Sailor Bar climbs are still not in.
Highway 5 – Coquihalla
Sunday January 13 I (Jeremy Thom) took my girlfriend for her very first ice climbing trip into Box Canyon. Bad idea. Henrik and Peter scooped us on Engage! and its WI3 first pitch, so we jumped on Scotch on the Rocks. A tad much for someone’s first day out. Scotch on the Rocks is fully in, but the bottom was in tough form for WI4+. The “ice” was largely snice, slush, snow and icicles. Even the good looking ice was largely hollow, aerated and soft, giving marginal protection. I wished I had more screamers. Oh, and there was a full deluge pouring down the whole climb. It was impossible to climb anywhere without getting drenched and ending up with a centimeter of ice coating the ropes and draws. After she suffered through 20’ of showering, ice encased biners and her first barfies, we bailed. I feel blessed she didn’t dump me as soon as we got back to the truck and even more so that she is willing to give ice climbing another try.
-8C in the parking lot at about 10:30, -3C at 4:45. The trail in is a completely brush free donkey track.
Other than Engage! and Scotch on the Rocks, I didn’t see much else that looked leadable, or likely to be leadable soon. I’m not sure which is Make it So, but if it’s a climb on the Emerald Wall mentioned in the guidebook, then I agree with Henrik. It’s close, quite possibly in already; likely at a tricky WI5. Bear in mind that observation was from a couple hundred meters away.