Posted by: westcoastice | January 10, 2013

January 10, 2013 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Peter and Ken)

Highway 99 North – Marble Canyon

Deeping Wall – Good shape with solid hooks and good screws.
Deeping Wall Direct – Lean at the bottom. Looked like it got a lot of TR action on the weekend and is re-building. It’s the wettest line on Deeping Wall.
No Deductible – Building well ,with a fair amount of ice blobs down low.
First Tier Direct – Looks good, but upper pillar has not come in this year. Need to stay right to finish.
Icy BC – 1st pitch – Great shape. Not fat and wide, but solid with quality ice top to bottom.
2nd pitch – Great shape, but a lean tube this year. Top out finds open water if you aren’t paying attention.
3rd pitch – I would say finally leadable, but not for me (Peter). Backed off halfway up before the second part of the business. It is way different then the last bunch of years but looks rad.
Air Care – Almost in and looking fun.
Fender Bender – Has another 20ft to grow before touch down.
Body Shop – Another week or two and it should be good as well.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Serendipity – Looks to be forming up again this year. Too early in the morning to give a solid report, but looks white.
Synchronicity – Went to climb this on day 2, seeing both tracks at the bridge and up above the river from the big corner. We (Peter and co) took the easy approach, but turned out to be the wrong one. No log or ice jam this year, so make sure you walk from the bridge. Route looks to be growing since first reports.
Mixing with Mike – Looked to be in up on the hillside, but that is a long walk for 2 pitches.
Loose Lady – Upper pillar looks to be fully in – and from roadside viewing looks less featured then some years.
Sweet Cinnamon ?? – Looks to be in and ice looks quality.
Last Call – Is touching down on the lower rock wall. I would think this is good to go as of this weekend.
Deep Throat – Still a hole to be seen, but then again there were holes in it last year and it was good times.
Carl’s Berg – still very lean IMO, but continuous ice.
Rambles – Lots of foot traffic on the approaches makes me believe that all lines are in. As usual, the Center Upper Tier (where we salvaged our day) was in fun shape with overall dry ice to be had. There is a 10m pillar forming right of the center that should be left alone for another week or two – let it grow and it will add another great variation to the top tier.
Closet Secrets – From what you can see at the road looks to have enough ice on the top exit for the bottom to be spicy fun. Bring some rock gear i would imagine.

And a note and pic from Ken – from back on December 30: I was skiing out of Cayoosh (Million Dollar Couloir) and this was on my right hand side as I was going out. Not sure what it is called, but it looks like there might be a couple of pitches…

Cayoosh Ice

Two-tiered ice fall seen on the ski out from Million Dollar Couloir



  1. Thinking about a trip to Lillooet from Portland for next weekend but the warming temp concerns me a bit. I think/hope there will be something to climb but I’d love to hear what locals say and weigh it in…I am not picky. You just can’t be if you live in Portland.

  2. Hi PDX Brewer,

    There should be plenty of ice next weekend, especially in Marble Canyon. Marble tends to be a few degrees colder than the rest of Lillooet, as it is in a canyon and is shaded all day. The Rambles and Duffey Lake Road climbs should be pretty good to go.

    Most of the temps are going to stay below or just slightly above freezing during the day in the Duffey. And below during the night. That should help the ice grow. As a rule, we look at the Clinton, BC forcast to get an idea of how the Duffey Lake Road temps will be:

    Hope you come up and enjoy the ice. Climb safe.


    PS drop some beer by on the way thru Van! 🙂

  3. Much appreciated, Adrian!


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