Posted by: westcoastice | January 6, 2013

January 6, 2013 Ice Climbing Report (Thanks Matt, Markus and Chris)

Highway 5 – Coquihalla

Dan Canton and I (Matt MacEachern) snowshoed into Box Canyon Saturday Jan 5, 2013 and climbed Engage!.
Despite +2 C in Hope, it was snowing at the pull out. Initially, we followed some old ‘outbound’ ski tracks – which made the going a lot easier (thanks for that).
Grim Reaper – 1st pitch is mostly snow, 2nd pitch is in and top is forming.
Mr Natural – 1st pitch is in, but pillar on 2nd pitch is not formed and looks like climb doesn’t connect.
Scotch on the Rocks – Fat and fully-in (faces North).
Engage! – We ‘earned’ our way up to the base of Engage! Dan led both pitches in his usual, flawless style. Dan stretched 1st pitch up into a cave (60 meters +). Top of 1st pitch just before cave is very cool – Dan said like something out of Dr Suess – with pillows, and bulges, and flutings. 2nd pitch had formed into 2 steep pillars – Dan stepped left out of cave and eventually back to right hand pillar to finish.
Note – the hike in is worth it as it is a fun climb.  Figured the first pitch is WI3 and 2nd is WI4.
1st rap off big tree (new sling and rap ring).
2nd rap off v-thread/Abalakov in cave.
Floated back out to car via soft snow and snow shoes.

Mr Natural

Mr Natural – not quite in

  

Engage P1 P2

Engage! Looking up. Note 2 pillars on P2.

 .

.

.

.

..

,

..

Engage cave belay

Dan, looking down from Cave belay (Engage!)

 

Engage Pitch 2

Dan leading the left pillar, Engage! second Pitch

.

..

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Highway 99 South – Duffey Lake Road

Paul Morton and I (Marcus Dell) climbed Rambles Left on January 3rd. The route is in fine condition. It appeared that the upper pitches had not been climbed in some time, because there were no footprints in the snow. At the top, we climbed the Grade 2 ramp on the left (see Photo).  The upper Grade 4 ice was in good, but wet condition (2 Photos).

Rambles Ramp

WI2 ramp at Rambles

Rambles Right Upper

Rambles Right upper WI4 pitch – top half

Rambles Right Upper

Rambles Right upper WI4 pitch – bottom half

.

.

.

 

.

.

.

.

Highway 99 South – Cal Chek/Whistler

On January 2, Paul and Marcus walked into the one pitch climb that often forms in Cal Chek.  It is very thin and may be OK on top rope.

(Chris) went up to Cal-Chek yesterday (Jan 5). Ice was thin, but, enough to top-rope. Here’s a couple of pics:

Cal Cheak

Cal Chek top-roping

Cal Cheak

Thin ice at Cal Chek


Responses

  1. […] three and half pitches on Rambles Left, up to the WI2 pitch shown in Marcus Dell’s recent report (Jan 6 report). Everything is coming in nicely. It was a very balmy day, and the ice was a bit wet. The rest of […]


Categories

%d bloggers like this: